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From tub Great Northwest 

TO THE /InT/UES 



BY 
LISPENARD PvUTGERS 



^ 



3 J/^' 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

@f|ap/^— - inpijrig|J !^a. 

^ Slielf.S..44 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




7 

4 



On and Off the Saddle 



CHARACTERISTIC SIGHTS AND SCENES 

FROM THE GREAT NORTHWEST 

TO THE ANTILLES 



BY / 

LISPENARD 'rUTGERS 



"Human nature is fond of novelty" 

Pliny 






G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS "^>![ gf WASjjg ^ 

NEW YORK LONDON O ^ f\ "V L -^ 

=7 * 29 West 23d Street 24 Bedford Street. Strand ^ / f ^^ 

1894 



K- 



^ 



Copyright, 1894 

BY 

G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 






Electrotyped, Printed and Bound by 

Ube Iknickcvbocficv ipress, mew Jgorft 
G. P. Putnam's Sons 



Contents^ 



1. Autumn in the Yellowstone Park 

2. Alaska and its Islands . 

3. Camping in the Yosemite . 

4. A Mid-Winter Excursion in the 

Rocky Mountains . 

5. Southern California and its Attrac 
TIONS 

6. En Route to the City of Mexico 

7. A Mexican Cock-Fight 

8. The City of Mexico . 

9. Bull-Fighting in Mexico . 

10. A Rocky-Mountain Picture 

11. The Queen of the Antilles 

12. A Western Cyclone . 



PAGE 

I 
20 
48 

57 

79 
94 

lOI 

119 
146 
166 
172 
194 



irilusttations* 



PAGE 



Icebergs in Alaskan Waters Frontispiece 

In the Heart of the Rockies . .57 
Our Hunting Party returning to Camp 166 



" The effect of travel on a man, whose 
heart is in the right place, is that the mind 
is made more self-reliant : it becomes 
more confident of its own resources." 

David Livingstone. 



■^^^^^^^i^li^^^^^^^ 



A STORY is told of a hunting 
party in a remote part of the 
Rocky Mountains having met an old 
French priest, who, with staff in hand 
and a knapsack, was enjoying a pedes- 
trian tour through the country. 

Prompted by curiosity, they inquired 
of him what brought him to that distant 
region, when he told them that his 
home was in a small village in France. 

A few years before, he had been laid 
up seriously ill with a fever. One night, 
falling into a deep slumber, he dreamed 
that he had died, and on reaching 
Paradise the Great Father said to him : 
" My son, what did you think of the 
beautiful world I gave you." With 
bowed head he answered : " I never 
saw anything of it except my own 
little native village." 



Vlll 

upon awaking, he determined that, 
should he recover and circumstances 
permit, he would see something of the 
beautiful world. 

" And that," answered he, " is how 
you find me here in these grand moun- 
tains." 

It has been said that of all natural 
gifts a love of natural beauty surely 
brings most happiness to the possessor 
of it, — happiness altogether unalloyed 
and unpurchasable, created by the mere 
rustle of green leaves, the mere ripple 
of brown waters, alike refreshing as it 
is to the mind, and strengthening to 
the body. 

"The lightness of spirits accom- 
panying bodily health carry you like 
wings over the rough places that must 
be traversed by weary steps, when the 
wings are not there." 



autumn in tbe l^cHowstone 
pail?. 



The Drive in from the West — Scenes in a 
Wild Country — A Sociable Horse- Thief 
— Yellowstone Wonders — A Race with a 
Prairie Fire. 

FOUR prancing horses — Peanuts, 
Antelope, Mag, and Grizzly — 
none of them having more than two 
feet at a time on terra firma, so anxious 
were they to be off ; for the morning at 
Beaver Cafion in northern Idaho, where 
we had been resting for the night, in a 
very ancient and airy tent, broke upon 
us with a crispness that even in autumn 
brought color to our cheeks and made 
our very fingers tingle. 

All seated in a good spring wagon, 
our guide and driver Jim, famous for 



Autumn in the 



having been a cowboy in Montana, and 
for having " killed his man," one of the 
necessary qualifications to be respected 
by his comrades, swung aloft his wicked- 
looking whip, and we were off with a 
jerk, as though we had been aided by a 
cannon-ball from the rear. 

Our way led over an extended prairie, 
with sharp mountain peaks visible in 
the distance ; the scene soon changes, 
and we find ourselves ascending to a 
high table-land with a beautiful rolling 
country on either side. 

A drive of twenty miles back from 
the railroad, where the shriek of the 
locomotive is never heard, we began to 
see signs of animal life ; prairie chickens 
fly up in front of our horses, alighting 
fifty feet off, so tame were they, and 
with our revolvers we secured enough 
to feed five times our party. 

On we plunged, until, when passing 
over the brow of a hill, we suddenly 
came upon a herd of antelope, about 



Yellowstone Park 



two hundred in the band. Dumb with 
amazement at our sudden intrusion, 
they raise their pretty heads, and, after 
a moment's pause, with a graceful bound 
they fly as though swept by the wind, 
their delicate limbs hardly seeming to 
touch the ground. 

Our shadows begin to lengthen as we 
sight in the distance Snake River, where 
a good game dinner awaits us, and a 
comfortable, clean tent stands ready to 
receive us, as we stretch our limbs after 
our fifty-mile drive. 

A row of nightcaps, respectively red, 
white, and blue, emerged from under as 
many blankets. Before the rising sun 
fairly reached the horizon, and after a 
splash in real ice water, we were ready 
for food, and then for anything. Our 
horses, especially Grizzly, seemed quite 
intoxicated with the exhilarating air, 
and with a dash we were on our way 
again. 

Plunging into dense forests for many 
3 



Autumn In the 



miles, the monotony was broken by 
the occasional sight of a flying fox, 
some Indian hunters, and frequent 
shots at coyotes. A little episode 
illustrative of border life occurred dur- 
ing the morning, which assisted in keep- 
ing up the excitement. Rounding a 
turn in the mountain, in a very secluded 
spot, down in a kind of basin, a strange 
sight greeted our eyes, quite causing us 
to forget the dust that had accumulated 
in them. 

A small, rough log hut, surrounded by 
six horsemen, each with his Winchester 
levelled at it. " After a horse-thief, you 
bet," says Jim, as he cracked his whip, 
and sent his horses flying, to get us out 
of reach of a possible leaden shower. 
Hardly had the crack of the whip 
sounded, before, flash, flash, came a 
volley from the hut, and as quickly 
each horseman's trigger was touched, 
the Winchesters belching forth a dozen 
or more shots ; when a yell of truce 
4 



Yellowstone Park 



proceeded from the hut, and the battle 
was over. 

All eagerness to see everything, we 
hastened back to behold, standing in 
the open doorway the captive, a rough 
yet handsome fellow, and as cool as, 
yes, several degrees cooler than, a 
cucumber, as he sullenly stepped out, 
saying : '' I give up, fellows — got no 
more lead." Without ceremony they 
secured his horse, which had been 
quietly grazing near by during the 
battle, and securely tying him on the 
animal with ropes about his body and 
limbs, leaving his hands free, compelled 
him to ride about ten feet in front of 
them, we all following in the rear. His 
captors had been pursuing him for 
seventy-five miles. 

Soon coming to a stream, we all 
stopped for luncheon, and a sociable 
time we had — the prisoner telling how 
he had evaded his pursuers by short 
cuts through the mountains, covering 
5 



Autumn in the 



his tracks, etc. Luncheon over, our 
course lay in different directions, and 
with a good-by we parted. 

The scenery increases in beauty as we 
advance, our way being through a series 
of mountain cuts, beautiful valleys, high 
table-lands, and often fording swift- 
running streams. Lake Henry, with its 
grassy shores, lies three thousand feet 
below the peaks reflected in it, its 
islands seeming to float on its surface. 
Cliff Lake, some miles off, with an un- 
known depth, the plummet finding no 
bottom at one thousand three hundred 
feet, is teeming with fish below and 
ducks above. 

After climbing a very steep mountain 
which made even Grizzly want to stop 
for breath, the steaming geysers of the 
Yellowstone National Park burst upon 
our view, about three hundred feet be- 
low us in the valley. A shght shudder 
at first creeps over us as we descend into 
the steaming atmosphere, feeling as 
6 



Yellowstone Park 



though we were entering the crater of a 
volcano ; but the shades of evening 
were already upon us, and with a few 
words of encouragement from Jim our 
horses soon landed us at the hotel at 
Fire Hole Basin, one hundred miles from 
Beaver Canon, our starting-point. 

The pen or brush is equally power- 
less to describe the wonderful geysers 
of the Park. One must stand in their 
awful presence, see with his own eyes, 
feel with his senses, and contemplate 
with his mind their immensity, and 
then in vain will he endeavor to solve 
the great problem, — whence and by 
what power are they produced ? There 
are numerous theories, but we will pass 
on for a closer view. 

Here we are approaching them ; in 
all directions we see them puffing like so 
many colossal engines ; you hesitate as 
your guide urges you to follow him. 
While gazing in one direction, you are 
startled by one of the smaller geysers 
7 



Autumn in the 



suddenly erupting near by, throwing 
its boiling contents some twenty feet 
in the air. 

You step about uneasily, threading 
your way midst hundreds of little 
geysers, sending their streams about as 
high as your head. The large geysers 
erupt at certain and quite frequent 
intervals, the most regular being " Old 
Faithful," which spouts every fifty-five 
minutes, throwing a stream six feet in 
diameter to the height of one hundred 
and fifty feet. 

Approaching one of the larger geysers 
just previous to its eruption, the earth 
seems to tremble, as with a rumbling 
noise, like smothered thunder, it begins 
to give vent to its pent-up force. First 
it shoots up a few modest spurts, then 
with a rattling roar and terrible groans, 
dense volumes of steam fill the air ; up, 
up the boiling, seething water is hurled, 
higher and higher, accompanied by a 
deafening boom and a sound as of 



Yellowstone Park 



mighty breakers dashing against a rocky 
shore, until a column of water, fifteen 
feet in diameter and two hundred and 
fifty feet high, stands before you, as a 
river hurled upwards like a rocket. 
For twenty minutes its steaming waters 
shoot upwards, falling in graceful spray, 
producing an enchanting effect in the 
dancing sunbeams. 

Space will not permit of a detailed 
description of the attractions of this 
locality. "Hell's Half-Acre," a lake 
fairly boiling and steaming with fury; 
the " Devil's Punch-Bowl," a peculiarly 
and wonderfully formed bowl some ten 
feet in diameter, perpetually boiling 
and bubbHng up several feet high ; to 
gaze down the yawning depths some 
fifty feet into the '' Devil's Well," with 
its clear, transparent, boiling waters, 
makes the beholder shrink and say: '' I 
have seen enough." 

We paid a farewell visit to " Old 
Faithful " to see it by moonlight : it is 
9 



Autumn In the 



always on time, and with watch in 
hand we stood waiting. 

The night was calm and beautiful, 
one of those quiet, restful nights the 
memory of which lingers long after ; 
the great pale moon appeared brighter 
than usual as it looked down on us 
through the clear atmosphere while the 
moments ticked away, when lo ! the 
dismal moan, the nerve-shattering boom 
announces the time is up, and with a 
deafening roar a golden lake bounds 
upwards, sparkling in the moon's rays. 

We stood in silence before the en- 
trancing spectacle. Such a sight was 
worth a lifetime, and it seemed as if 
nothing of more marvellous beauty 
could ever greet the human eye. 

It has been truly said by those who 
have seen the Grand Canon of the 
Yellowstone that no language can do 
justice to its wonderful grandeur and 
beauty. 

Behold a mighty gorge, carved by 



Yellowstone Park 



the impetuous waters during countless 
ages in volcanic rocks, descending 
gradually until reaching a depth of 
about two thousand feet. 

We were fortunate to have our first 
view of it on one of those bright, calm 
days, when, with its own hallowed at- 
mosphere. Heaven seemed to diffuse 
itself over the earth's face with a solemn 
smile, no less sweet than solemn. 

With each fresh lift on the precipitous 
terraces the view broadened until the 
great valley lay unrolled at our feet. 

About thirty miles long, the walls, in 
many cases almost vertical, are eroded 
into towers, spires, and minarets of 
colors most brilliant, surpassing all the 
expectations that were conjured up 
in our imaginations. 

The pure white of the decomposing 
feldspar, blended with sulphur yellows, 
intermingled with bright red, colored 
with iron, the brilliant rainbow hues 
in rich abundance brought out in strong 



Autumn in the 



relief by the dark green pines along the 
cliffs serve as a background for the 
warmer colors, — the whole uniting to 
form a scene of enchanting splendor. 

We look over the dizzy precipice far 
down to where the river is boiling and 
surging as it plunges on its way, battling 
with mighty boulders as though pro- 
testing against its imprisonment as it 
lashes the solid walls. Yet all is silence ; 
distance has swallowed up the sound of 
its mighty roar. 

The Great Falls of the Yellowstone 
leap over a precipice three hundred and 
fifty feet high. As we approach we 
hear the suppressed roar resembling 
distant thunder ; it seemed as though 
the mountain, unable to support its 
great weight of waters, shook to its 
foundation — the cataract became a fall- 
ing river. 

Prodigal nature has here outdone 
herself. As this mighty play of waters 
plunges amid the rocks, the dense clouds 

12 



Yellowstone Park 



of mist and spray produced by the 
whirling mass as it dashes with the 
noise of heavy artillery against the 
resisting rocks produces a rainbow not 
only richer in color, but grander and 
clearer than we had ever seen before. 
The mountains and valley caught and 
emphasized the golden rays which were 
flooding the scene. 

Truly it has been said that the grand 
in nature more than in art demands 
homage. 

Our four-in-hand dashed up to re- 
ceive us at 7 A.M., after a breakfast by 
candle-light, for our return drive. A 
hard cHmb found us at the summit of 
the mountain near by. In the distance, 
seemingly fifteen or twenty miles ahead, 
the view was obscured by smoke, in- 
deed — a prairie fire ; not a strange 
sight to any of us. On we travelled, 
but the expression and earnest look 
on Jim's face indicated to us that it 
might be something serious. 
13 



Autumn In the 



About noon, as we were emerging 
from a dark, wild, narrow canon in 
cutting our way through the moun- 
tains, we were confronted with three 
prairie wolves, who were just entering 
the canon we were leaving. They were 
fleeing with desperate speed, and see- 
ing us they stopped short, gazing about 
them with a petrified stare, uncertain 
as to which course to take, but they 
quickly dashed by us, within twenty 
feet, and soon disappeared. " A danger 
signal," said Jim, as he took an extra 
grip on his reins and stretched his 
neck. '* A big fire we 've got about 
us." 

True enough, for as we passed out 
into the open prairie we beheld a sight 
which sent a thrill of horror through 
us when we comprehended the situation. 

We had been traveUing westward, 

while the fire had been travelling in an 

easterly direction, and had already 

passed to the left of us and apparently 

14 



Yellowstone Park 



closed up our rear retreat. The horses 
sniffed the air excitedly, looking about 
them in a wild, uneasy manner, theij* 
ears moving to and fro, as they nerv- 
ously neighed to each other. 

Away in the distance, where the 
prairie met the sky, a heated, quivering 
line arose, surmounted by a dark, waver- 
ing cloud. It was the prairie on fire ! 
The wind was blowing almost a gale, 
directly towards us, and the long dead 
grass was as dry as tinder ; the fire was 
plainly spreading rapidly, and, with a 
wild shout to the horses, Jim showed 
the stuff of which he was made. 

Off to the right we shot at a furious 
speed, leaving the road and taking to 
the pathless prairie ; a band of antelope, 
with eyes like fire, came rushing past 
us, adding to the excitement and fury 
of our horses. A glance to the left 
showed that the fire was gaining on us, 
as, with a horrible crackling sound, we 
could see the bright flames, twenty feet 
15 



Autumn in th< 



high, shooting upwards, and tongues 
of fire leaping ten yards at a time before 
the gale. 

The fire was fast overhauling us. The 
dark rolling smoke soon overcast the 
sky above our heads, seeming to im- 
prison us. Jim muttered something, 
and his face grew ashen, as the flecks of 
foam from our wild horses flew over his 
breast. It seemed as if our hour had 
come. 

On we went, the fire momentarily 
drawing nearer, the billows of smoke 
each instant growing denser and the 
heat more suffocating, at times seeming 
as though it would blister our faces. 
Should we throw out our guns and 
traps and lighten the wagon ? Not a 
word from Jim, but his strong arm and 
steady eye were intent on saving us, as 
we thundered on at terrific speed. 

Shall we ever forget that moment 
when for an instant the smoke cleared, 
and we realized we were being literally 
i6 



Yellowstone Park 



encircled by the raging fire— caused 
by contrary and varying winds, — only 
about a quarter of a mile ahead, there 
was an opening of several hundred feet 
for our escape ! Could we reach it 
before the gap closed ? 

Again the smoke wreaths whirled 
around us ; our eyes were smarting from 
the heat ; the panting horses, mad with 
terror, blindly rushed through the dark- 
ness, as we yelled words of encourage- 
ment to them. Could they hold out? 
It was a race for life ! A few moments 
and we dashed through the opening, 
then not one hundred feet wide, and 
were safe ! 

We reined up in a short time, after 
fording a stream, and with deep-drawn 
sighs of relief, bounded out of the 
wagon. 

Our noble horses, our preservers, 

were trembling with excitement, reeking 

with perspiration, and almost white 

with foam. We all set to work 

17 



Autumn in the 



to rub and dry them, while soothing 
and quieting them with words of praise, 
for we owed our lives to these four 
noble fellows. 

An hour's rest and rearranging found 
us ready to resume our journey, with a 
determination to complete our entire 
trip of one hundred miles without 
stopping for the night if it were pos- 
sible. 

We soon left the ugly smoke behind 
us, and set our eyes and minds to enjoy 
the loveliness of the scene which lay 
ahead of us ; indeed, we were now more 
than ever sensible to the charms of 
nature. The gale soon ceased, leaving 
only as a remembrance a soft zephyr to 
fan our cheeks; the sun was bright and 
nature was all smiles. 

Our eyes soon regained their wonted 
clearness, and as we passed on in our 
journey, leaving the wild, open prairie 
for the mountains and valleys where 
the quivering aspen gave life to the 



Yellowstone Park 



solitude, the whole country about us 
seemed illuminated with its varied 
colors, for autumn had come with her 
magic touch and transformed it into a 
mammoth bouquet. 

The sun was slowly sinking as we 
drew beside a pretty stream, where we 
dismounted to take supper — one of 
those lovely secluded spots that nature 
sometimes kindly furnishes. 

The placid waters reflected the 
heavens, the weeping willows kissed 
the ripple, the humble flowerets grew 
unbidden within the sacred precincts, 
and tranquil as eternity lay in the 
breathless skies the forms of the 
mighty hills about us. 

After supper, just before leaving, as 
we quietly smoked our pipes around the 
crackling camp fire, the stillness of the 
scene, in contrast with that of the morn- 
ing, lulled us into silent meditation. 

There are dark shadows on the earth, 
but its lights are stronger in contrast. 
19 



aiaefta anJ) its llelanbs^ 



Along the Coast — Waters Alive with Salmon 
and Other Fish — Appearance of the 
Natives — Their Peculiar Habits and 
Customs — Afi Indian Wake. 

HANDKERCHIEFS were waving, 
and our restless little boat gave 
great puffs of satisfaction and fairly 
screamed as the cable that had re- 
strained her of her liberty splashed into 
the blue water and she glided smoothly 
away from a crowd of sad-looking up- 
turned faces out into the pretty harbor 
of Victoria. 

The city of Victoria, the seat of gov- 
ernment of British Columbia, situated at 
the southeastern extremity of Vancou- 
ver Island, occupies a commanding com- 



Alaska and its Islands 



mercial position. Its many handsome 
buildings present a pleasing picture as 
viewed from the harbor. The solid red 
brick government buildings, in the 
Swiss style of architecture, are espe- 
cially imposing. The broad drives and 
general attractiveness of this little city 
of some ten thousand souls engender 
a slight feeling of homesickness, as we 
start on our lonely journey northward 
for Alaska, conscious of the fact that 
soon we shall be almost one thousand 
miles from the reach of the telegraph 
and of the civilized world. 

Before introducing my readers to 
Alaska, a few words as to its extent may 
be of interest. The name Alaska is a 
corruption of Al-ay-ek-sa, the name 
given by the native islanders to the 
main land, and signifies " great country." 
In this respect it is well named. 

Bounded on the north by the Arctic 
Ocean, east by the Northwest Territory 
of Canada, south and west by the Paci- 



Alaska and its Islands 



fie Ocean, Behring's Sea and Strait, it 
contains about 531,400 square miles. 
All the other States and Territories of 
the United States combined contain 
2,970,000 square miles ; hence Alaska 
is nearly one fifth the size of all these. 
Its vast area can thus be conceived. 

Our first stop was at Port Townsend, 
the port of entry for Puget Sound. It 
lies at the entrance to that magnificent 
body of water. The place is of small 
consequence, but situated as it is in a 
pretty bay, with some cosy residences 
scattered on the hills and bluff over- 
looking the beautiful still water, it is 
very attractive to the eye. 

Our vessel now points her bow due 
north, and threads her way among 
numerous islands. To the left of us 
rises the Olympian range of mountains 
in the distance; to the right of us, 
solitary and alone, and enveloped seem- 
ingly in a golden vapor, rises the lordly 
Mount Baker, one of nature's own 
22 



Alaska and its Islands 



grand monuments, stretching its head 
some 10,600 feet above us. 

We turn into our bunks at an early 
hour anticipating an early breakfast. 
Awaking from a refreshing sleep we find 
ourselves at Nanaimo, the great coaling 
station at Vancouver Island ; all hands 
spend the day fishing and visiting the 
coal-mines. Another night of sound 
sleep prepares us for our long journey, 
Nanaimo being the last stopping-place 
before reaching Alaska. 

Our route lies along the eastern coast 
of Vancouver Island. The mountains 
border closely upon the water's edge, 
the shore is indented by numerous bays 
and tiny inlets, and innumerable islands 
are scattered in our pathway. 

For days we thread our way midst 
these countless islands, through narrow 
watery lanes that wind among them. 
One hour our craft will be ploughing 
her way through a fierce, swift-running 
current, soon to find herself in calm, 
23 



Alaska and its Islands 



blue, deep waters, troubled only by a 
gentle breeze encompassed all the time 
by an ever-shifting panorama of rock, 
verdure, thick forest, and picturesque 
mountains. 

Protected as we are by Vancouver 
Island, no motion is felt from the Pacific 
until we reach Queen Charlotte's Sound, 
at the upper end of the island, when 
the long swells come rolling in upon 
us, and we are awakened at midnight 
by being tossed about in our berths. 

Early morning on deck presents to 
us a beautiful scene. To our left the 
great ocean reaches far away to the 
horizon, not a sail or even a bird in 
sight. It is a calm, restful picture. On 
our right lies the main shore of British 
Columbia, fringed by countless islands, 
heavily timbered with spruce, the Cas- 
cade range of mountains in the back- 
ground. Queen's Sound, also Fitzhugh 
and Smith's Sounds, into which flow the 
Bella Coola, Salmon, and other rivers of 
24 



Alaska and its Islands 



less note, are before us, great flocks of 
wild fowl frolicking in their waters. At 
the head of these streams are located 
some of the important posts of the 
Hudson's Bay Company. 

Our next point of interest is Cape 
St. James, the most southerly point 
of Queen Charlotte's Islands. These 
islands lie some seventy-five miles out 
in the Pacific, from the main land. The 
mountainous ones are clothed with 
dense forests of cedar, spruce, and 
hemlock, stretching down to the water's 
edge, so dense in many places that it 
seems as though there was barely room 
for a single person to gain a foothold. 

The Hydah Indians, numbering 
about six hundred, live on these 
islands. With the aid of our field 
glasses we can discern them on the 
shore and in their canoes paddling 
along the coast. They live by hunting 
and trapping mink, bear, and other 
game. Their origin, in the absence of 
25 



Alaska and Its Islands 



any record, can only be surmised, but 
from their features, legends, and carv- 
ings, it seems probable that they are 
castaways from eastern Asia. 

Our journey northward partakes of 
the character of usual sea-voyages : the 
days pass with the regulation tramp 
about the deck, stray whales occasion- 
ally announce their presence by squirt- 
ing aloft and bellowing their adieux as 
they toss their tails heavenward and 
dive into deeper waters. 

Each one is now intent on catching 
a glimpse of Cape Fox, the first point 
visible of Alaska, that great territory 
which in 1867 cost the United States 
$7,200,000, a seemingly large sum at the 
time, for what was generally considered 
a huge iceberg, but the revenue now 
derived from its possession, and its 
prospective revenue, must convince 
the most incredulous of the wisdom 
of the purchase. 

We are now entering the waters of 
26 



Alaska and its Islands 



Alaska. After journeying northward 
some two hundred and fifty miles, 
passing the Prince of Wales Island to 
our left, we reach our first stopping- 
place. Fort Wrangel. 

Clustered on the shore to greet and 
stare at us are the native men, women, 
and children, and an odd-looking lot 
they are. The men as a general thing 
are offensive in their appearance, with 
great, large, broad heads, and heavy, 
sullen countenances. 

The women, as a rule, are homely, 
with here and there an attractive face, 
most of them arrayed in brilliant- 
colored blankets and gaudy petticoats, 
trimmed with a fringe of deer-skin, just 
long enough to conceal partly the bare 
feet and ankles. From the wrists is 
suspended a string of shells or pebbles, 
a species of Alaska bangle ; from the 
lower lips of many of the women a 
silver pin protrudes, called a labrette, — 
some, however, are made of wood. 
27 



Alaska and its Islands 



Many of the younger women have 
their faces blackened. In some cases 
this is done to preserve the complexion 
which, strange to say, is even valued 
among such a barbarous tribe, while in 
other cases it is done as a mark of 
mourning forthe dead. The blackening 
is done with seal oil and soot. 

In front of the native huts are 
erected *' totem sticks," which are large 
poles standing up some thirty to sixty 
feet high ; they are really an Indian 
coat-of-arms. Each family of any 
account has its own " totem stick " 
erected in front of the house of the 
head of the family, the size of the stick 
and the amount of carving indicating 
the wealth and position of the pos- 
sessor. 

The figures most generally carved on 
the poles represent eagles, alligators, 
and fish, also heads of men and beasts. 
The hieroglyphic carvings on the poles 
are said to portray the curious legends 
28 



Alaska and Its Islands 



of the far distant tribes and many of 
their strange customs. In the song of 
" Hiawatha " Longfellow says : 

And they painted on the grave posts, 
On the graves yet unforgotten, 
Each his own ancestral totem, 
Each the symbol of his household, 
Figures of the bear and reindeer, 
Of the turtle, crane, and beaver. 

The pecuhar usages of these people 
may be imagined, when it is stated that 
when a chief dies his wives all pass to 
his next heir ; in many cases they fre- 
quently fall to the lot of the son, grand- 
son, or nephew, as the case may be ; 
the curious state of the family circle 
is thus evident. In some instances 
these widows purchase their freedom 
by giving blankets, but this is done 
chiefly only among the rich. 

A study of their habits is most 
interesting. They do not seem to 
understand comfort, or else do not 
desire it. As is well known, it rains in 
this region about three hundred days 
29 



Alaska and Its Islands 

in the year. The natives naturally 
become accustomed to being rained 
upon, and probably Inherit a love of 
moisture. 

During our day at Fort Wrangel, 
while the sun was shining, a family of 
Thlinket Indians a short distance back 
in the country were huddled together in 
their hut ; but as soon as it commenced 
to rain, one and all emerged, sat around 
on logs and chatted, seeming to enjoy 
it. The natives take little account of 
time ; they paddle along the coast for 
hundreds of miles on the most trivial of 
errands, the question as to where they 
stay or sleep apparently being of small 
consequence. 

The fish stories as told by those 
who have visited Alaska might seem to 
be greatly exaggerated, but such is 
probably not the case. The fish sup- 
ply here is apparently inexhaustible. 
Salmon appear in solid schools six and 
eight feet deep. 

30 



Alaska and its Islands 



The Strickeen River back of Fort 
Wrangel and the outlets of some of 
the inland waters to the salt water are 
at certain seasons actually choked with 
squirming salmon, causing them, in their 
eagerness to pass through, to crowd 
each other above the surface of the 
water, thus creating for the time a solid 
bank of fish. Smaller fish are also to 
be found in surprising quantities. Her- 
ring swarm in the channels. The candle 
fish, about six inches long, which is 
delicious eating, can be caught by the 
million. A pailful can be had from a 
native for the merest trifle. A host of 
other varieties abound until the lover 
of fishing here, tires of the sport. 

Leaving Fort Wrangel, we continue 
our journey northward, the scenery 
increasing in its beauty. The timbered 
shores, to which we had by this time 
become so accustomed, do not grow 
monotonous, but rather seem to in- 
crease in grandeur. The endless brill- 
31 



Alaska and its Islands 



iant green of these mountainous Islands, 
kept verdant by the almost continuous 
rains, lend a peculiar charm. Our vessel 
steams through channels so narrow at 
times that the rushing waters seem to 
bear us onward without any effort on 
our part. 

The entire country through which 
we wind our way is so abundantly tim- 
bered that one feels almost bold enough 
to assert that no such wooded region 
exists elsewhere on the globe ; from 
the highest mountain peaks to the 
water's edge great mammoth trees 
stand like a compact army. 

Early morning found us approaching 
Juneau, opposite Douglas Island. The 
boom of our little cannon, echoing all 
around us through the mountains, 
awakens the inhabitants, who stand idly 
staring at us as we throw ashore our 
cable. Here are located the great mines 
and a large stamp mill. 

The usual modes of amusement com- 
32 



Alaska and its Islands 



mon in all mining camps are resorted to 
— gambling, drinking, and its accom- 
paniments. During the night the 
dance-houses are aUve. At the most 
prominent one, the owner and fiddler, 
who acts in the capacity of orchestra 
and general manager, informed us that 
he came to Alaska intending to give 
his attention to missionary work, but 
finding a good opening to coin money 
in this line of business, he could not 
make up his mind to leave it. 

Indian girls to the number of twenty- 
five to thirty, ranging in age from twelve 
to sixteen years, were the bait to attract 
customers, and well they served their 
purpose. White men largely outnum- 
bered the Indians, the latter being 
rather shy about displaying their terpsi- 
chorean powers. After each of the 
dances, chewing-gum and apples are 
presented to the girls, while the men 
drink "hoochinoo," a drink distilled 
by the Indians, made from molasses or 
33 



Alaska and its Islands 



sugar, with flour, potatoes, and yeast, 
altogether the vilest and most powerful 
of spirits. 

At midnight, we were present at a 
kind of '' wake " over the daughter of 
an Indian chief, who had suddenly died 
and was to be cremated the following 
day. Clad in high top-boots, each per- 
son carrying a lantern, we tramped 
over a pathless bit of country some 
distance back from the coast, through 
a muddy, slimy soil. Some time before 
we reached the spot the groans and 
shrieks of the mourners could be heard. 
Arriving at the chief's hut, our guide 
first crawls in, crouching low, and dis- 
appears. Soon emerging, he leads us 
in single file through the opening, only 
two feet high. 

A weird sight presents itself. In the 
centre is a fire of loose logs and brush ; 
the smoke, after filling the hut as well 
as the lungs of the occupants, passes 
out through a hole in the roof. Seated 
34 



Alaska and Its Islands 



around the fire on the ground are the 
wives and relatives of the chief. At 
the farther end, on a kind of bed, lie the 
remains of the chief's pretty daughter, 
a girl of eighteen. Her black hair lay 
loosely over the pillow. A tiny red 
handkerchief encircled her pretty 
throat ; a deer-skin was laid over her 
body, and over it her exquisitely 
moulded arms were gracefully crossed ; 
at the head and foot of the body a pine 
knot was burning, sending flashes of 
light over the scene. 

All was silent as we advanced to 
view the remains, the wind whispered 
mournfully without, and she looked in- 
deed as though she but slept. The 
chief stood at the head ; a huge fellow, 
with a hard, villainous countenance ; he 
embraced us warmly, much to our dis- 
comfort. After this ceremony we all 
squatted about the fire, enlarging the 
circle of mourners, and fell in with the 
general chorus as best we could. 
35 



c^^c5a(^C^^K^|tl^^ 



11. 



Glaciers — A Tramp through Inland Forests 
— Game, etc. — Sitka Waters by Moonlight. 

OUR next objective point is Chilcat, 
in latitude 59° 13', being nearly 
the same latitude as Cape Farewell, at 
the southern extremity of Greenland. 
Bundled in our warmest clothes, we 
were on deck to welcome the rising 
sun, a sight of rare beauty at this high 
latitude. The morning star stood over 
the tops of the mountains, growing 
fainter and fainter, proclaiming in her 
silent way that the gates of day were 
unclosing. 

The rainy mists of the morning rolled 
away, and quickly the scene of a mo- 
ment ago was changed to one of rare 
beauty. The morning was superb. 
36 



Alaska and Its Islands 



The blue waves danced and sparkled in 
the sunlight ; a fresh, cold breeze blew 
from the north, and our little vessel, 
seemingly inspired with the gorgeous 
scene, ploughed her way right merrily 
through the clear waters. 

Chilcat is of small interest. It is in- 
habited by the Chilcat Indians, a small 
tribe. A few miserable dwellings are 
scattered along the shore. An estab- 
lishment is located there in which they 
extract oil from herring, which are 
found in the waters near at hand in 
countless numbers. Steamers rarely 
penetrate farther north in the inland 
waters than this place. It is about two 
hundred miles in a direct line from 
Mount St. Elias, which rears its head 
19,500 feet above sea-level. 

We took on board at this place two 
prospectors, who had just arrived from 
the Yukon region, after an absence of 
two years. Almost every vestige of 
clothing with which they had started 
37 



Alaska and its Islands 



had gone the way of all material things, 
and from their feet up they were clad 
in skins, reminding one much of the 
pictures of Robinson Crusoe. Besides 
venison and fowl, they had subsisted 
largely on berries, crab-apples, and fish. 
In their wanderings, as they informed 
us, they discovered that the Indian 
tribes in the interior live largely inde- 
pendent of each other, and at distances 
of about two hundred miles, and gen- 
erally speak different languages. 

The afternoon found us steaming in 
a southerly direction for Sitka. Not- 
withstanding the fact that our eyes and 
senses had from the beginning of our 
trip been charmed with the scenery, 
the route from Chilcat to and around 
Baranoff Island to Sitka fairly surpassed 
anything yet experienced in point of 
variety and beauty. 

Although during our journeyings we 
had encountered, as all travellers to 
Alaska must expect, abundance of rain 



Alaska and its Islands 



(at Fort Tongass the rainfall was re- 
ported as 118.30 inches for the year), 
we were now favored with perfect 
weather. The deep clear waters were 
as calm as an inland lake. Around us, 
here and there, floated icebergs as blue 
as the purest indigo, while gigantic 
glaciers like frozen fortresses look down 
upon us, — amid such varied, rapturous 
scenes the eye almost aches, and the 
spirit inclines to weary. 

For reasons best known to our pilot, 
we anchored for the night. It was a 
superb night. The moon, three-quarters 
full, tinged everything with a brilliant 
hue. About us was a fleet of icebergs. 
The snow upon the mountain peaks 
glistened like polished silver as the 
moon rose in the heavens. Great 
schools of whales, snorting monsters, 
gambolled about us. The silvery water 
lay rising and falling, a picture never 
for a moment the same, yet every 
moment more beautiful. 
39 



Alaska and Its Islands 



The following day brought us to 
Sitka, the capital and chief city of 
Alaska, on the west coast of Baranoff 
Island. Under the name of New 
Archangel, it was formerly the capital 
of Russian America. 

As our vessel approached its moor- 
ings, native men, women, and tiny 
children came paddling out to meet us 
in their canoes, some to pick up any 
cast-off articles from tin cans to cigar 
stumps ; some to sell us fur caps, 
baskets, and various useless articles, and 
others, by smiling glances or mournful 
appeals, to win from us our loose 
change or anything we had to give. 

A view of Mt. Edgecomb, with its 
pointed snow-capped summit, is ob- 
tained from Sitka. Looking seaward, 
" Sitka's Thousand Isles " arrest the eye. 

The city itself is old and dilapidated ; 

the most conspicuous structure is the 

Greek church, built in the form of a 

Greek cross, with a green dome in the 

40 



Alaska and its Islands 



centre. It contains a curious font, and 
a fine painting of the Virgin and Child, 
a copy of the celebrated one in Moscow. 
The drapery of the figure is silver, the 
halo around the head being of gold, 
leaving nothing of the original painting 
to be seen but the faces and back- 
ground. The church is reached by 
three broad steps leading to four doors. 
No woman can pass the threshold of 
these doors, but the sterner sex can 
enter and view the gorgeous vestments, 
and bishop's crown loaded with pearls 
and amethysts. 

On the edge of the city the Sitka 
Indians have their huts, some of them 
being quite comfortable and warm. As 
usual, the fires are built in the centre of 
the room, the smoke finding its way out 
by a hole in the roof. They usually 
consist of one apartment, the various 
members of the family distributing 
themselves on an elevated platform 
around the edge of the room. 
41 



Alaska and its Islands 



The natives have the large head and 
broad face, a distinctive feature of all 
the Indians we observed in Alaska. As 
is well known, large heads are found 
in cold regions, and smaller-sized in 
warmer ones. It is argued that men 
with large heads endure cold better 
than those with small ones. More vi- 
tality being required to sustain life in 
cold climates, nature gives largest heads 
in colder regions. 

The Lapps have the largest heads 
in Europe in proportion to their size. 
Then come the Norwegians, Swedes, 
Danes, Germans, French, Italians, the 
Arabs having the smallest heads of all 
men in Europe. 

The climate of this part of Alaska is 
by no means severe. The Japan cur- 
rent, the '' Kuro-Siwo," a black stream 
of warm water flowing northward from 
the coast of Japan, tempers the at- 
mosphere, bringing fogs and mists that 
envelop the mountains and valleys. 
42 



Alaska and its Islands 



Space will permit but the briefest 
mention of many other interesting 
features of this great country. As to 
vegetables, fine potatoes are raised in 
certain sections, onions, and a great 
variety of berries, as well as crab 
apples, many of them in a wild state. 

Among the interesting sights are the 
numerous seals which are constantly 
seen gliding swiftly through the water, 
their black heads and large shining eyes 
just peeping above the surface. 

On account of the mass of accumu- 
lated timber of ages, fallen trees, stumps, 
limbs, and entangled underbrush, to- 
gether with the marshy softness of the 
ground, step after step your foot sinks 
into great sods of reeking moss, and 
pedestrianism is by no means rendered 
easy. 

After careful preparation we sallied 

forth on a tramp back in the country. 

The vast forests of gigantic fir, cypress, 

and hemlock trees, by which we were 

43 



Alaska and its Islands 



soon surrounded, fairly bewildered us ; 
many of them measuring over thirty feet 
in circumference. It is fair to assume 
that, while there are larger trees in the 
world than are found in this distant 
country, there does not exist on the 
globe trees of equal magnitude in such 
vast numbers. 

The trunk of one huge king of the 
forest lay prostrate across our path like 
a great wall some ten or more feet high. 
Other large trees had taken root from 
the top of the prostrate trunk, drawing 
nourishment from the fallen monarch, 
and tossed their proud heads a hundred 
feet in the air. 

From the large trees the *' sons of 
nature " make their canoes, some of 
them seventy feet long, very wide and 
deep, and with a capacity for a hundred 
or more warriors. 

Around, and all about us, as we pull 
our now heavy limbs after us, our long 
walking poles sinking deep in the mire, 
44 



Alaska and its Islands 



crawling animals with glassy eyes and 
slimy coats come out of their holes and 
gaze at us as we unconsciously intrude 
upon their domains ; possibly humanity 
had never before trespassed upon them. 

Returning, we pass near the spot 
where it is said that '' all the good 
Indians live " — the Indian bury-ground. 

The hunter and trapper can find here 
abundant game. Bear, deer, wolf, fox, 
beaver, ermine, marten, and other small 
game are prolific. The feathered tribe 
are also well represented. Flocks of 
sea-gulls float over the water, or crowd 
the projecting rocks ; ducks, geese, and 
snipe fly hither and thither; the king- 
fisher, with its peculiar lonely whistle, 
and the eagle perch themselves on 
dizzy cliffs, and look down contentedly 
on the animated scene. 

The shadows were commencing to 

lengthen as we returned to Sitka. 

After our fatiguing but interesting 

tramp, our vessel was preparing for her 

45 



Alaska and its Islands 



start homeward during the early morn- 
ing hours. 

We mount the deck of our '' floating 
castle " and clamber into the rigging 
and watch the retiring sun with an 
indescribable sense of pleasure. Before 
us lay the island-studded sea enshrouded 
in a soft golden haze ; the heavens were 
divinely painted, the distant waters re- 
flecting its gorgeous colors, as the red 
disc sank from view ; gleaming bars of 
light shot over the scene, the waters 
blazing back a crimson greeting. 

The night wore on ; beneath the 
shadow of those mighty hills lay the 
black deep waters, until the heavens 
sow it with stars and transform it into 
a fairy scene. The full moon rose 
calmly in the dark blue vault of the 
night sky. It is the same old moon 
greeting us here in this region far away, 
that from childhood we have gazed 
upon and wondered at, in places far 
remote. 

46 



Alaska and its Islands 



The ship's bell tolls, — how the hours 
have sped ! It is midnight, — the match- 
less moonlight for which this latitude is 
noted, with its softest beams bathes the 
slumbering city. It is nature's holiest 
hour. The music of the rippling water 
falls gently on our ears. Never did 
sound so sweetly harmonize with scene 
as on this night when in my rapture I 
said to the passing hour, ** Stay, for 
thou art fair." 



47 



Camping in tbe l^oeemite- 



Autumn Days and Nights in Famous 
Scenes — A Welcoftte Camp- Fire — Among 
the Big Trees. 

THE smile of the rising sun was just 
waking the earth, the glow of the 
morning was speeding down the moun- 
tain side, announcing to the valley 
below the advent of another day, as we 
emerged from our tent at the edge of 
the valley, where we had camped late 
on the previous night. In thirsty 
draughts we drink the freshness of the 
hour, and in the glow of enthusiasm 
eagerly seek our first view of the great 
valley. 

Before us is a scene such as a flying 
bird has, bewildering and dizzy to our 
48 



Camping in the Yosemite 



untutored eyes. The whole panorama 
of mountain, valley, and sky was mag- 
nificent ; the night vapors were rolling 
away ; far down in the valley, the dark 
green pines fringed the base of the 
stupendous perpendicular rocky walls. 
Midway up, the thick white mist veiled 
from view the rugged rocks, above 
which arose, in strong relief against 
the clear autumnal sky, the ''cathedral 
spires," seemingly to rise from some 
floating chateau in the air. 

Saddling our ponies, we prepared to 
explore the yawning gulf below us ; the 
clear invigorating air stimulates our 
ponies to hilarious activity, rendering 
useless the clanking steel at our heels. 
Following the zigzag road down the 
mountain side, views of rare beauty 
and impressive grandeur present them- 
selves at almost every turn. 

Like a glittering wire of steel, the 
Merced River, resembling a tiny brook, 
gleams so far down in the valley that 
49 



Camping In the Yosemlte 



the murmur of its waters is not heard. 
The "Bridal Veil" Falls, so appropri- 
ately named, throw a gauzy sheet of 
sparkling water from the dizzy rocks 
nine hundred and forty feet above the 
valley. 

Gazing up from the bed of the valley, 
one is dwarfed by nature and abashed 
by her grandeur. Great walls of rock 
imprison us on every side. " El Capi- 
tan," called by the Indians To-tock-a- 
nu-luy " great chief of the valley," an 
almost perpendicular mass of solid rock 
rising three thousand three hundred 
feet above the valley, is on one side. 
" South Dome," the Indian name being 
TiS'Sa-ack, "goddess of the valley," 
touches the hurrying clouds five thou- 
sand feet above us. "Round Tower," 
prettily entitled by the " sons of the 
forest" //'2/;2-/^, meaning the "watching 
eye," two thousand four hundred feet 
high, lies as an infant among its com- 
panions. On every side we are en- 
50 



Camping In the Yosemite 

compassed by noble mountains of 
magnificent proportions, the highest 
being *' Cloud's Rest," towering six 
thousand one hundred and fifty feet 
above the valley, crowned with dainty 
pink clouds breaking and floating about 
its brow. 

Mirror Lake, calm and restful, re- 
flecting minutely the bold rocky walls 
above it, as well as the tiny twig that 
has sprung into life far up on a ledge 
on the mountain, presents a picture of 
surpassing beauty ; the essential still- 
ness of the scene seemed to attune our 
souls to musing, as in silence we con- 
templated the placid water. All was 
still save a passing flock of wild doves, 
their silky breasts reflected in dazzling 
rays on the bosom of the lake, the 
mighty walls of rock throwing back 
the echo of their plaintive cooings. 

Vernal, Nevada, and Yosemite Falls 
pitch their foaming waters over the 
rocky cliffs, the latter two thousand six 
51 



Camping in the Yosemlte 



hundred feet above us. Clambering up 
the trail to Glacier Point, we firmly 
grip our long poles as we gaze down a 
precipitous cliff, three thousand two 
hundred feet, into the valley below. 

The cunning hand of art has not 
marked the course of these cooling 
streams that fall so gracefully to make 
green the valley below, or piled up these 
mighty rocks, but all about us we are 
made to realize the marvellous work 
of "The Great Architect "! 

Midst the varied scenes the hours 
quickly pass, the declining sun bidding 
us hie to our camp. The higher moun- 
tain peaks, like monarchs mighty in 
their superiority looking down on their 
fellows, now send the shadows of their 
greatness upon them. Our feelings as 
we wander over the mountains at this 
twilight hour are quite untranslatable. 

Long before reaching camp the sun 
had sunk behind the great hills and the 
dull, gray sky warns us to hasten on 
52 



Camping in the Yosemite 



our way — as the moon on which we 
had counted to light our returning trail 
would be obscured. A gentle wind 
arose, gradually increasing into a gale, 
until at every opening in the mountains 
it rushed upon us with increasing force. 

Darkness was slowly gathering over 
the world and folding it out of sight ; 
cold winds swept down through the 
gloomy gorges, shaking and bending 
low the trees, showers of dead leaves 
raining about us ; high up in the peaks, 
mingled with the hoarse winds howling 
tempestuously, could be heard the 
crackle of dead limbs, and now and 
then the crash of some mighty tree, 
uprooted and hurled prostrate among 
its fellows. 

Reaching camp, located in a cove 
sheltered from the wind, a steaming 
supper around a brilliant camp-fire 
soon makes us oblivious to the roaring 
winds about us ; a pleasurable sense of 
lassitude seems to render our Havanas 
53 



Camping in the Yosemite 



more fragrant as, seated in this temple 
of nature, we watch the fantastic 
wreaths of red fire dance in the air 
against the pitchy darkness of the 
heavens, rising and faUing in such 
graceful forms that the eye is riveted 
in admiration. 

The morning dawned in all its 
autumnal splendor — one of those fair 
mornings when the air is laden with 
a subtle, dainty gladness, and every 
pulse within us seems to throb with 
new life ; the rude winds had robbed 
many of the trees of much of their 
foliage, leaving the bare limbs like a 
network on the skies, and the ground 
illuminated with golden leaves. 

We rode forth elated with the scene ; 
the mode of movement was exhilarating, 
and all was brightness and splendor; 
the little squirrels wait for us in the 
trees and perk their heads from their 
safe retreat as we pass under, the 
music of the mountain stream blend- 
. 54 



Camping in the Yosemite 

ing harmoniously with the rustling dead 
leaves. 

The pen can but inadequately convey 
an idea in any way realistic of the mam- 
moth trees — Sequoia gigantea — located 
some distance from the valley. One 
must stand in their presence and gaze 
upon them, so straight and tall, as in 
their silent majesty they sway their 
heads three hundred feet above you, 
and wander around their huge trunks, 
measuring from eighty to one hundred 
feet in circumference, and ride through 
a miniature tunnel, cut through one of 
the larger trees, capable of permitting 
the passage of a large mountain coach ; 
while another giant of the forest, 
measuring some thirty to forty feet in 
diameter, can shelter in its hollow 
burned-out trunk over a dozen eques- 
trians, still having walls sufKciently 
thick to sustain the huge tree above ! 

We pitched our camp in the after- 
noon near a mountain stream, where 

55 



Camping In the Yosemlte 



its waters, having overflowed its boun- 
daries, had formed a beautiful sheet. 
The sun, like a weary traveller, was sink- 
ing in the western sky, stretching its 
crimson rays across the scene, the waters 
flashing back the brilliant colors ; the 
mountains are painted in golden tints, 
and the trees, seeming all ablaze, sway 
to and fro like mammoth torches. 

Softly the twilight fades into night. 
One by one the silvery points of light 
break out of the darkened heavens, and 
the great red moon, like a ruby in the 
sky, slowly rises seemingly from its nest 
in the distant mountains, sending her 
salutations across the tremulous wave- 
lets of the water in a golden shaft of 
light. The odor of decaying leaves per- 
fumes the air, as we close our eyes on 
this beautiful Indian summer night, 
wondering if such a day will ever dawn 
again. 



56 



H flDi&^TKIlinter leycureion in 
tbe IRocki? fiDountaine* 



A Mining-Camp Hotel — Miners at Work 
and Play — Thirteen Thousand Feet in the 
Air — Sce?ies and Incidents of the Trip — 
An Encounter with a Bear. 

A HEARTY breakfast over, we 
stepped out into the crisp, in- 
vigorating air, so familiar to those who 
have wintered in a high altitude. Our 
shaggy, rough-coated ponies were await- 
ing us, each surmounted with a huge 
Mexican saddle — as comfortable as an 
old-fashioned arm-chair. 

In full flush of morning enthusiasm, 
we started — our party of three and a 
guide. We had our chaplain, full six 
feet two, and thin — well, to use his own 
words, he had not enough flesh on his 
bones to catch a shrimp. He was al- 
57 



A Mid- Winter Excursion 



ways hungry, but he was capital com- 
pany and venerably interesting. 

Our professor was a rotund, jolly 
fellow, whose face had expanded under 
the influence of good living, until his 
second chin had extended beyond the 
limits originally assigned for it ; he was 
plumply serene and ponderously gra- 
cious, fond of society, a lawyer by pro- 
fession, one of that tribe who fatten on 
the disputes of mankind, with gold- 
rimmed spectacles and a very red nose — 
(a red nose has always been presumptive 
evidence of overwork at the bar !), — 
entertaining and full of anecdote. 

As for the writer, he was ** an every- 
day young man," devoted to travel, 
fond of studying the world and its 
people, possessing a passionate love for 
fine scenery and the beautiful things in 
nature. 

Our guide sitting erect on his pony 
was an ideal figure of a Rocky Moun- 
tain pioneer — tall, erect, and muscular, 
58 



In the Rocky Mountains 



tanned by the storms and exposure of 
many years — the picture of health ; a 
frame on whose close-woven fibres dis- 
ease could find no space to enter; his 
broad-brimmed hat, buckskin suit, and 
spurs with rowels like miniature wind- 
mills, all combining to render the scene 
complete. 

Nothing is so contagious as enthusi- 
asm and we all soon caught the com- 
plaint. 

Our start was made from an altitude 
of over ten thousand feet above sea- 
level, yet the mountain peaks towered 
well above us, glittering brightly in the 
early morning sun. The way at first led 
along the bleak mountain side, with 
deep snow-drifts all about us ; for a 
long distance we rode in almost silence, 
enjoying the luxury of breathing such 
air, the mere smell of which seemed to 
kill twenty years. On one side, as far 
as our theatre of vision reached, was one 
unbroken plain of snow ; on the other, 
59 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



the eye was untrammelled, with nothing 
to mark the view save the strangely- 
chiselled peaks that stood like sentinels 
above us — the ensemble forming a 
wilderness of solitude. 

Our course soon changed, and, enter- 
ing a gorge, we plunged deeper into 
the heart of the mountains. Striking a 
narrow trail, we passed huge boulders 
scattered here and there, dropped by 
the glaciers in their migrations in ages 
long ago. Crystal streams, foaming 
madly, work their way down the moun- 
tain side, some starting from a dizzy 
height and, dashing against the ragged 
rocks, reach the pool below in finest 
spray ; others come thundering down 
in all their might, rush on in their 
course, and are lost in the river below. 
With the aid of our field-glass we could 
discern, thousands of feet below us, the 
silent flowing stream, born among the 
snows of the high mountains. 

For many miles we continued our 
60 



In the Rocky Mountains 



way amid these ravishing scenes and 
enchanting sounds, each one wrapped 
in a glow of imagination. The snow, 
which had for some time been falling, 
now increased in violence, until we 
found ourselves in the midst of a raging 
storm, accompanied by a furious wind, 
which howled about us wildly, at times 
rendering our progress difficult. We 
soon, however, discerned in the dis- 
tance a collection of tents — the mining 
camp, which was our intended haven 
for the night. 

Shortly before reaching the camp, 
our attention was attracted to a small 
procession coming toward us. Ap- 
proaching nearer, we perceived a poorly 
clad miner bearing on his shoulder a 
tiny coffin of plainest construction, be- 
hind him his weeping wife and a few 
followers. The little one, as we after- 
ward learned, had fallen down the shaft. 
We drew up our ponies to one side, and 
raised our hats as the little procession 
6i 



A Mid- Winter Excursion 



silently passed on its way — the wind 
sighing a requiem and the snow furnish- 
ing a pall. 

Reaching the camp after our long 
day's ride, we were not reluctant to 
dismount and stretch our limbs. We 
halted in front of one of the larger 
tents, on which was a rough sign, 
" Bordin and Login." A small boy 
with an ancient, shiny suit of clothes 
and danger-signal hair, stood within, 
staring at us ; in the corner of the 
''parlor," squatted on the floor close 
to the stove, was a little girl, who 
did not notice our entrance. After 
our repeatedly inquiring of her if we 
could see the proprietor, she yelled, 
" Mamma ! " when we were startled by 
seeing a woman's head suddenly appear 
in a forest of curl papers ! Meekly in- 
quiring if she could accommodate us, 
and receiving an affirmative answer, we 
seated ourselves. 

The landlady shortly made her ap- 
62 



In the Rocky Mountains 



pearance, fixed up in the latest style, 
eyed us all separately, and evidently 
satisfying herself that we were all right, 
gave a grunt. She was a woman of 
fickle temper, and ample avoirdupois — 
full of business and not bad-looking — 
so thought our professor ! Did we 
want supper? If so, what? Our chap- 
lain suggested mountain trout or any 
kind of fish ; he was awful hungry, and 
could eat anything, from a shark to a 
bathing suit. He liked fish because he 
believed it to be the restorer of youth, 
the fountain of perennial previousness. 
If she had no fish, well, then, anything 
would do. 

We took our seats and awaited de- 
velopments. First came soup in large 
tin pans — true, it was hot, but our 
landlady had attempted too much in 
trying to make a five-cent bone furnish 
soup for a dozen hungry boarders! 
Next we had some fine venison and 
potatoes, which we were voraciously 
63 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



devouring in silence, when, looking up, 
there stood our hostess with arms 
a-kimbo, who, gazing at us with* ap- 
parent astonishment, said: ** Well, you 
ain't a crowd I 'd like to grub by con- 
tract." 

Supper over, we sat around the big 
stove and listened with interest to the 
stories of the miners, of the ups and 
downs of their lives, their hopes and 
anticipations, all of them being pro- 
spectively rich ; this it is that stimu- 
lates them to cling to the hard life they 
have selected. 

A stroll through the camp was sug- 
gested, the whole party joining. There 
were two rows of tents, about twenty- 
five feet between them, constituting 
the so-called street. Most of the tents 
were well lighted. Peeping in at the 
windows or doors, we found the occu- 
pants chiefly engaged in playing cards. 
A number of the tents were exclusively 
drinking saloons. 

64 



In the Rocky Mountains 



About midway down was a large 
tent with an American flag waving over 
it — a red sign reading " The Home ** 
being swung to the breeze. This ap- 
peared to be the main rendezvous of 
the miner. The painful strains of an 
accordion were audible, and here gam- 
bling in its various forms was in full 
blast. 

Here was seen the anxious and worn 
faces of those who were risking their 
hard-earned wages. "- Gaming, hot 
fever of hope and fear," — a pitiable 
sight indeed ! 

Many were sitting about asleep, 
drowsy from drink ; others riotous and 
boisterous in behavior. No law was 
here to restrain or check the human 
passions. Here was an opportunity to 
study human nature — one side of 
human nature. It has been said that 
the face is the soul translated into 
flesh ; if such is the case, what must be 
the condition of these souls? 
65 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



Returning to our tent, thinking over 
the strange scenes, we found our cots 
arranged about the stove, ready for us, 
and each one rolling himself in one of 
those marvellously made Navajo blank- 
ets, made by the Indian tribe of that 
name, — blankets which seem to defy the 
tooth of time, — we were soon in 
dreams. 

The gray dawn had only just peeped 
through the windows, when the camp 
was astir. A refreshing sleep had re- 
newed our appetites. Our chaplain 
said that a few Sundays previous, after 
walking two miles to Sunday-school one 
afternoon, he was so hungry he came 
very near eating the infant-class, and 
this morning he was equally hungry, 
and the manner in which he attacked 
an elk steak gave evidence of his ve- 
racity. 

During the morning we descended 
into a mine several hundred feet. 
The night's revelry was over, the men 

66 



In the Rocky Mountains 



had slept off the effects of their dissipa- 
tion, and the sound of the pick and 
shovel was heard on every side ; all in 
utter darkness, save the tiny candles in 
their queer-shaped iron candlesticks, 
stuck here and there. The superin- 
tendent informed us that with a few 
exceptions the miners were constantly 
changing from one mine to another, as 
the fancy struck them. We stood gaz- 
ing on the active scene and could not 
help thinking what a busy world this 
is ; the workers are always changing, 
but the work goes on and will go on 
forever. 

It is said that the Greenlanders live 
in the hope of a warm heaven and in 
fear of a cold hell ! We should think 
that miners would live in the hope of 
fresh air in heaven, for on our arrival 
at the top of the shaft the ecstasy we 
experienced at again inhaling the 
fresh air was beyond description, and 
we gave ourselves up to the full enjoy- 
67 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



ment of filling our lungs with all they 
could hold. 

A steaming cup of coffee, a word of 
thanks and remuneration to our land- 
lady, and we were ready for our return 
trip. The professor lingered for just a 
quiet word with our fickle hostess, — a 
whisper — after which he took off his 
spectacles on purpose to wink at her 
and then put them on again. 

We took another course returning, 
passing over some high ridges at an 
altitude of over thirteen thousand feet. 
Further than a slight quickening of the 
pulse, no unpleasant sensations were 
experienced in consequence of the rare- 
fied air. Those who admire the grand 
in nature can see it in perfection here. 
We follow our guide as he slowly and 
cautiously picks his way on the lofty 
and precipitous cliff, along whose 
side a narrow shelf has been cut, from 
which the descent is perpendicular for 
one thousand feet or more. 
68 



In the Rocky Mountains 



We crawl through gorges with walls 
of supreme height on either side, and 
emerging are presented with a diversity 
of fine views. The pen is powerless to 
describe adequately the splendor of the 
scenery that breaks upon our view at 
every turn. We undertook to reach the 
summit of one of the high peaks; a 
narrow trail led by steep grades, follow- 
ing a part of the way the banks of a 
mountain stream and affording ex- 
tended views through the clefts in the 
mountain. 

Dismounting within about a hundred 
feet of the top, we found it a hazard- 
ous pastime for the bridge of the nose 
to clamber up, but we succeeded, until 
we stood seemingly to touch the 
hurrying clouds. On one side stretched 
a plain like the illimitable sea, without 
a bound, rolling silent and white ; in 
the other direction, irregular peaks in 
wild confusion bevv^ildered the eye. 
Nothing in this world could surpass the 
69 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



grandeur of this scene. We all stood 
in silence, each one surrendering him- 
self to his thoughts, and a glow of 
enthusiasm was lighted within us. 

It has been questioned if a fulfilled 
desire is ever as perfect as we anticipate 
it ! To us it seemed as if these scenes 
must be the summit of earthly magnifi- 
cence, and we felt as though — 

" 'T were worth ten years of peaceful life, 
One glance at that array." 

Remounting, we continued our 
course, gradually descending, and soon 
the first exciting incident occurred. 

Our guide, a man of few words, rode 
about twenty feet in advance of us. He 
suddenly reined up, looking intently on 
the ground. On reaching him we learned 
the cause — the snow was falling, and 
the fresh footprints of a bear were 
clearly visible. In an instant every one 
had his rifle in hand ready, — for what ? 
Before we had time to exchange a word 
70 



In the Rocky Mountains 



the black form of a huge beast was visible 
on the white snow on a rock below us 
not over lOO feet distant. 

Our dog '' Wanda," a big fellow, a 
cross between a mastiff and a bull-dog, 
darted down the rocks after the beast, 
seizing him by the hind foot. The bear 
quickly wheeled about and with a slap 
of his paw drove him off. The dog, not 
a novice at hunting this kind of game, 
quickly let go his hold, only retreating 
however, far enough to keep out of 
reach of the bear, but ready to spring 
at him again. 

Quickly dismounting, we threw the 
reins over the heads of our ponies, 
letting them drag on the ground, a cus- 
tom of the cowboys when leaving their 
ponies, trained as they are to remain 
thus where left, unless something of an 
unusual nature disturbs them, when 
they, of course, may wander off. 

The bear, with a growling dog behind 
him, and we in front of him, snarled 
71 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



and snapped viciously at the air, evi- 
dently maddened at the intrusion, 
tossed his head from side to side, un- 
certain which way to go, apparently, 
however, not anxious to leave, as we 
looked at him over the barrels of our 
Winchesters, — when flash ! a ball from 
one of our rifles crashed into his breast. 
Seemingly as with one bound he was 
on us ; our ponies plunged wildly, the 
hanging reins entangling their feet ; two 
of them fell over in a heap, while each 
of us seized our knives, ready for close 
work if necessary. 

Wanda, appearing to realize our 
danger, again sent his teeth deep into 
the bear's hind leg, and as he turned to 
shake him off another ball was sent into 
his fat side, but it seemed to have no 
effect except as a stimulant for renewed 
activity. 

We all kept close together lest in the 
fight, now getting rather hot, we might 
shoot each other ; the bear, at times, 
72 



In the Rocky Mountains 



being at very close quarters, should 
we surround him we could not shoot 
except at great risk to ourselves. 

The snow was now sprinkled with 
blood flowing from the wounded beast, 
when with a desperate rush and a 
bound like that of a wild cat he leaped 
forward, Wanda hanging to his leg, and 
before we could fire again his great ugly 
paw, with distended claws, struck the 
professor, reeling him over as though 
he were an infant. 

A moment's delay on our part and he 
would have crushed out his life. Too 
close to fire, we plunged our knives into 
the hind quarters of the bear to draw 
him off, when the professor, with a torn 
jacket, but uninjured, sprang to his feet, 
full of pluck and courage, to fight for 
his life. 

The bear had turned on us, and with 

our faithful dog still getting in his work, 

which seemed to bewilder the beast, 

he paused as if not knowing what next 

73 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



to do. Our knives had sunk deep into 
him,. and loss of blood was evidently 
making him dizzy ; that moment's 
pause gave us our chance. 

The professor drew his revolver, 
and before the bear again had a 
chance to turn about, he put a ball be- 
tween the two eyes of the wounded 
animal, and the huge monster dropped 
on his knees ; almost simultaneously, 
each of us sent a ball crashing into his 
head from our revolvers, and he sank 
to the earth to rise no more. 

" When he hits 't is history, 
When he misses 't is mystery." 

We soon " pulled ourselves together," 
remounted our ponies, after loading up 
to be ready for any other emergency, 
leaving our bear to enjoy his long 
sleep. 

At noon we arrived at a small cabin 
occupied by some prospectors, rough, 
uncouth fellows. Halting for rest and 
74 



In the Rocky Mountains 



lunch we entered. One man was mak- 
ing coffee, in which he was boiHng some 
eggs, '' to save time/' as he said. The 
most talkative of the party wrestled 
hard with English. He said : ^' I ain't 
much on English, but I can talk Spanish 
powerful." He and the rest of the 
party did not seem unfamiliar with the 
perils of the bottle, for drink was visible 
on every face. He said " he could drink 
whiskey in ten different languages." 

One of the men had an ugly wound 
on his nose, which was much swollen. 
He was busily occupied in one corner 
bathing it. In reply to our inquiry, he 
said " he had bumped against the busi- 
ness end of a six-shooter the previous 
week; hoped soon to be all right 
again." With his injured nose we 
thought it must have shut out the 
landscape a great deal. 

Chinamen are generally not numer- 
ous around or near mining camps, being 
in ill favor with the miners. Here was 
75 



A Mid-Winter Excursion 



the only one we saw, a seemingly bright 
fellow, who said he was naturalized, 
and with a smile said : " Me pliceman 
on my mother's side and washwoman 
on my father's side." He was chattering 
to himself in his " tea-box " language, 
when one of the miners, with an oath, 
informed him " that if he did n't make 
less noise, he 'd start a lead mine in 
him." It had its effect. 

Off again, we enjoyed the ever- 
changing scenery. The sun was about 
sinking in the west as we neared our 
journey's end. We drew up on a pro- 
jecting cliff and paused. The storm had 
cleared and the skies were bright. As 
the light of declining day seemed to 
mingle earth and heaven, blending the 
harsh mountain tops with the sky, it 
seemed as though here was everything 
to awaken the soul and inspire the 
mind : the music of the dashing waters, 
the mountains, the skies, the out- 
stretched world below. 
76 



In the Rocky Mountains 



Our jolly host came out to greet us, 
and a blazing fire awaited us. Without 
ceremony we were soon seated at a 
well-laden table generously supplied 
with the choicest of game. Our gracious 
host soon appeard with two bottles of 
" extra dry "—just off the snow— would 
we accept them with his compliments? 
Our chaplain arose and with a beaming 
smile, addressed him, saying, that as we 
were all extra dry too, he would accept 
them on behalf of the company ! Our 
professor, who, with the aid of his spec- 
tacles, had espied the pretty daughter 
of the host, remarked that he had some 
good qualities in his cellar and some 
charming ones in his daughter ! 

A good dinner and a quiet evening 
over some choice cigars which our 
chaplain discovered in one of his deep 
pockets, during which we talked over 
our pleasant winter's picnic in the 
Rockies, and watched the dying embers 
in the big wood fire until their bright- 
77 



In the Rocky Mountains 



ness had all but faded, brought to a 
conclusion one of the most enjoyable 
trips of our lives. 

We had studied both nature and 
human nature ; we had seen varied 
characters strongly marked and broadly 
colored ; we had viewed the noblest and 
wildest of scenery in the dreary solitude 
of mid-winter, and in the midst of raging 
storm. Truly, indeed, pleasure delights 
in contrasts ; it is from excitement we 
learn to enjoy solitude, and from soli- 
tude excitement. 

It was one of those enjoyable epi- 
sodes in life which linger in the memory 
like a charming landscape. 



78 



Soutbern California anb ita 
Httractions* 



Southern California^ its Many Attractiotts — 
A Night in Chinatown — A Ride throtcgh 
the Santa Clara Valley — Fine Ranches — 
A Visit to the Home of " Raniona " — 
Beautiful Sunsets — A Mifiing Camp in 
Old Mexico. 

TRAVELLING southward from San 
Francisco we pay flying visits to 
San Jose and Santa Cruz, the former a 
beautiful city surrounded by orange 
groves and attractive gardens ; the lat- 
ter, a city of about ten thousand peo- 
ple, including the suburbs, beautifully 
situated on the bay of Monterey. 

It has a fine climate throughout the 
year and one of the best beaches for 
surf bathing in this country ; many 
pretty "flower-embosomed" homes, 
with rose-crowned gardens, are scattered 
79 



Southern California 



through the city, making it a favorite 
resort. 

Across the bay is the well-adver- 
tised and justly celebrated resort, 
Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, sur- 
passing, in beauty anything of its kind 
on the Pacific coast, situated in a grove 
of live oaks and pines of great size, 
while on all sides the grounds are aHve 
with blooming roses, pansies, callas, 
and heliotropes, as well as countless 
other varieties of flowers, interspersed 
with rare and beautiful tropical plants 
growing in rampant luxuriousness. 

Continuing our journey some four 
hundred miles in a southerly direction, 
we reach Los Angeles, " Puebla de la 
Reina de los Angeles " (Town of the 
Queen of the Angels). It has a climate 
almost perfect, there being but a differ- 
ence of about fifteen degrees in the 
mean temperature during the year. 

The society is most attractive, many 
of our brilliant men and women having 
80 



Southern California 



gathered here seeking an equable 
climate, and one can here surround 
themselves with genial companions 
drawn from the ranks of the clergy, the 
legal profession, artists, men of leisure, 
etc., while a warm greeting generally 
awaits the stranger. 

The immediate surrounding neigh- 
borhood is simply enchanting ; as we 
extend our walk to the upper end of 
the city, we find some of the most 
charming residences, being, in many 
cases, the homes of wealthy merchants. 

Here and there, dotted along the fine 
wide road, are pretty villas embowered 
in perfume-laden and ever green orchards 
of semi-tropical fruits and plants. A 
hammock gracefully swings in the soft 
breeze, whilst its occupant lays aside her 
book to reach for an orange which 
hangs from the tree sustaining her airy 
couch. Farther on we find some hand- 
some and costly villas, encompassed on 
all sides by fruitful vineyards, and we 
8i 



Southern California 



pause for a moment as our eyes rest on 
luscious bunches of grapes, and trees 
heavily laden with lemons, oranges, or 
olives, while under the large long leaves 
near by, we see peeping out a huge 
bunch of bananas. 

Strolling off to the side streets, we 
still find ourselves amidst pretty cot- 
tages of modern architecture, mostly 
surrounded by luxuriant fruit trees, 
many of the orange trees being strongly 
propped up, to help sustain the great 
weight of their abundant fruit. 

The Sierra Madre mountains are seen 
in looking eastward from Los Angeles, 
and serve as a beautiful background as 
one approaches the city. The wild 
scenery in these mountains is cele- 
brated. Saddling our ponies, we pene- 
trated into some of the wildernesses; 
the scenery being of the grandest. We 
gave our ponies their heads as they 
picked their way along the narrow 
cliffs, stepping carefully here and there, 
82 



Southern California 



sometimes almost jumping from rock 
to rock. As we looked down into the 
yawning chasm, we sat in silence, feel- 
ing our own insignificance amidst these 
grand works of nature. 

As we were about to return, assem- 
bled on a high cliff, the sun was just 
setting, and as our eyes wandered off 
into distance, the fleecy clouds were 
lighted up with the grandest of crimson 
and golden colors. No wonder the 
Persians worship the sun ; so we 
thought, as its last rays shed a delicate 
light on the golden valley of orchards 
and vineyards at our feet. 

The Chinese, in Los Angeles, are 
quite numerous and almost monopoHze 
a certain portion of the city ; they are 
quiet and orderly as a class, attentively 
minding their own business, but, never- 
theless, always a target for the ever 
present hoodlum. 

Through the kindness of one of the 
city officials— a courteous lawyer and 
83 



Southern California 



gentleman — we were escorted on a 
most interesting tour through " China- 
town," as it is called. Starting out at 
eight o'clock one pleasant evening, we 
called first at some of their stores ; 
business being about over for the day, 
we found them in clusters, old and 
young, eagerly gathered about the 
counter, at their greatest of amuse- 
ments — gambling. Not a word was 
uttered by any, so absorbed were they 
in their game, and, after casting a hasty 
and wondering glance at us, they 
ignored us entirely. 

Passing on, and visiting many stores, 
we came to a restaurant, about lo P.M. 
First entering a small office we passed in 
at a door to find ourselves in the dining- 
room ; here seated at tables are several 
Celestials, quietly but hard at work on a 
dish of thick kind of soup, which they 
caused to disappear rapidly by throw- 
ing into their mouths with chopsticks. 

A fat cook busy at the stove is 
84 



Southern California 



seen in the rear humming a dismal 
air. The man who does the waiting, 
being considered quite a musician, is 
called upon for music and favors us 
with a series of howls and groans which 
he calls a song ; and then on his one- 
stringed instrument he makes us feel 
generally uncomfortable. As the music 
progresses and the musician seems to 
warm up to his, work he howls like a 
dog and rolls his eyes wildly. 

A movement is heard above, and, on 
looking around for the cause, we find 
dozens of pairs of sharp eyes looking 
down at us from above ; thus, while 
supposing ourselves in the company of 
two or three Chinamen, we realize that 
a score or more of them are about us, 
and we find that the apartment is, as it 
were, cut in two, thus giving two floors 
to an ordinary-sized room, a ladder 
being used to ascend to the sleeping 
apartment above. Thus one fair-sized 
room can be used for a restaurant 
85 



Southern California 



below, and lodge twenty persons or 
more on the shelves above ; but they 
seem happy and contented. 

As they are packed together in such 
a state, we wonder how they can 
emerge looking so cleanly each day; 
but they are particular about their ap- 
pearance generally, and carefully bathe 
every morning. 

The night is wearing on, and mid- 
night brings us to a dark, dreary spot, 
where, hand in hand, we are wonder- 
ingly led through passage after pass- 
age, first up, then down, until our 
leader knocks at a door, being answered 
by a Chinaman, who, after a glance, 
recognizes one in authority, and quietly 
ushers us in. We find ourselves in a 
dimly lighted temple, a weird, strange 
looking place with an altar. We are 
conducted to an apartment in the rear, 
behind the altar, and there we find a 
singular scene. 

Reclining on couches, smoking 
86 



Southern California 



opium, are the priests, who at first 
look amazed at the intrusion, but 
soon relapse into their stolid, fixed 
expression. One of the priests, by 
request, kept telling us his feelings as 
the smoking gradually affected him, 
and if he told the truth, as he probably 
did, he soon became too happy to talk, 
and the expression on his face certainly 
denoted intense and almost supreme 
happiness. 

We accepted an invitation to take 
some tea, which was very hot and 
without sugar. The custom of offering 
hot tea to all visitors is a universal one 
among the Chinese, the omission of 
the courtesy being considered ex- 
tremely ill-mannered. 

Near the city are some of the finest 
ranches in the State; one notably 
large ranch, producing oranges, lemons, 
olives, figs, limes, almonds, walnuts, 
pineapples, bananas, and a great va- 
riety of tropical and semi-tropical fruits. 
87 



Southern California 



A short ride out of the city brings 
one to the San Gabriel Mission, 
founded in 1771. The walls are dilapi- 
dated, as are all these old Spanish 
missions, but the ancient bells still 
hang in their belfry, and a piece of the 
worn-out rope hangs from the bell, the 
monks who handled it having long 
since been laid away in the dust. 

The valley called the San Gabriel is 
considered, by many who have visited it, 
the most perfect spot on the face of the 
globe. Shielded from the north wind 
by mountains, everything unites to make 
it all that the heart could wish for. 

There are innumerable charming 
rides and drives in and about Los 
Angeles. Pasadena, a perfect garden 
of a settlement, is near at hand, and 
some lovely rides extending a few 
miles into the mountains near-by bring 
us to some most attractive ranches. 

We greatly enjoyed a ride to Santa 
Barbara, about 150 miles to the north- 
88 



Southern California 



west, passing through the Santa Clara 
Valley. The road is sandy, and at 
times very dusty ; but the noble moun- 
tains on either side make it most 
enchanting. The last part of the ride 
for some miles is on the beautiful hard, 
white beach, and the breakers roll up at 
times to the horses' feet. For quite a 
distance the mountains rise abruptly 
from within twenty feet of the shore, 
hence the roadway at high tide is but a 
few feet wide. We find good use for 
our guns, as ducks, geese, and snipe are 
plentiful, and we land in Santa Barbara 
with a bag full. 

Many invalids in search of a salu- 
brious chmate find their way to this 
place and derive benefit from its genial 
atmosphere. The heavy night fogs 
keep the soil damp, making the city a 
veritable flower garden. 

On our return trip we stopped at 
some of the large ranches, notably that 
one rendered famous by " H. H.," the 
89 



Southern California 



home of " Ramona^'' where we remained 
and were delightfully entertained for 
several days. 

Our next point was Coronado Beach 
about 125 miles south of Los Angeles, 
one of the most attractive places on 
the California coast. As yet it may 
not quite compare with Monterey as to 
the extent of its cultivated and beauti- 
ful grounds, but nature has favored it 
in point of situation, and time will 
make it the most delightful resort in 
this country. 

The Hotel del Coronado in spacious 
elegance surpasses any hotel in this 
country. The blue waves of the ocean 
roll up to its very doors, a magnificent 
beach stretches away in the distance, 
and bathing, fishing, sailing, and shoot- 
ing offer inducements to the robust, 
while invalids can rest on its sunny glass 
enclosed corridors. It is one of those 
rare spots on earth where nature seems 
to have lavished all her charms, 
90 



Southern California 



The days pass swiftly to a sojourner 
in Southern CaHfornia. The easy, loaf- 
ing life is delicious, and so varied and far 
from monotonous that as the time comes 
for us to leave we wonder if we shall 
ever find anything so perfect again ! 

When we took our seats in the cars, 
late one afternoon, we gave long, Hnger- 
ing looks behind, regretting to leave 
the most attractive place we had seen 
in the West, and some of the most 
charming people. As we moved off, the 
picture was a gorgeous one. As the sun 
sank from skies as mild and soft as 
Italy can boast, we gazed out of the 
window of the car to take in the pano- 
rama of loveliness till day had deep- 
ened into night. 

Our trip eastward took us through 
Southern Arizona, interesting without 
being attractive. From a small way 
station we branched off to visit a new 
mining camp in the northern part of 
Old Mexico, a wild, untamed part of 
91 



Southern California 



the country. The scenes at night in 
this camping village were interesting. 

The light of the fires was reflected 
on the white tents, flickering on the 
faces of the groups sitting about them 
in careless attitudes, and on the mov- 
ing forms of the tall, gaunt Mexicans 
as they passed from tent to tent. In- 
side some of the larger tents parties of 
hilarious miners and pretty black-eyed 
girls sat around. On entering one we 
found the whiskey bottle playing an 
important part, and another white 
liquor, of Mexican manufacture, which 
we were informed was deadly in its 
effects. They were gambling, and 
money seemed abundant. 

While very picturesque in the dis- 
tance and from without, we found the 
young girls of the most degraded kind, 
drinking and gambling the same as the 
men, and were glad to leave tent life in 
Mexico and resume our journey. 

We stopped at Las Vegas, in New 

92 



Southern California 



Mexico— 6400 feet elevation,— a lovely 
spot with a fine hotel, famous for its 
hot springs. Remaining a few days, 
we rode up '* Old Baldy," some 11,000 
feet high, the view from the summit 
being superbly fine. At Santa F^, the 
most ancient of cities in this country, 
we found much to interest us. 

One must travel through the Great 
West to conceive of its vastness, and 
one must go to Southern CaHfornia to 
see the beauties of America. A wealthy 
resident of Los Angeles informed us 
that he had travelled over almost the 
whole world; had tried innumerable 
climates, " but here;' said he, " I find 
the brightest and loveliest spot on 
earth, wildness and beauty, surrounded 
by mountains and hills; here I have 
decided to make my home, and here I 
shall remain until I die; and, when 
Death shall come, I wish to take my 
long sleep in this sunny valley, until 
I awake in the * City of the Angels.' " 
93 



En IRoute to tbe Citi? of flDeylco^ 



A Rapid View of El Paso and Northern 
Mexico — The City of Chihuahua — Pic- 
turesque Scenes — Its Ancient Cathedral. 

TWO HUNDRED bright-colored 
lanterns swung gayly in the 
breeze, their cheery Hght flashing out 
into the gloom, like so many flying 
meteors. The regimental band was 
blowing itself into wrinkles, keeping the 
merry dancers hard at work. 

A few hundred feet away lazily 
flowed the Rio Grande, of small con- 
sequence at this point, save that it 
divides the sister republics, both of 
which contributed their quota to the 
farewell ball tendered by the officers of 
the cavalry regiment stationed on the 
border at El Paso, Texas. The Mex- 
ican beauties from across the river, 
94 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



with their rich oHve complexions, 
showed in pleasing contrast to the 
unusual number of blonde American 
ladies present, and with the glittering 
uniforms of the military the scene was 
a charmingly brilliant one. 

The gayety of the evening was 
tempered, however, by a feeling of 
sadness, for early on the morrow the 
regiment was to break camp, being 
under marching orders to leave for Ariz- 
ona, to pit their lives against the roving 
Indians, to fight them in their fast- 
nesses, while our party were to leave 
for a pleasure trip through old Mexico. 

The morning broke dark and threat- 
ening, but found us brimming over 
with enthusiasm for our journey, 
snuggled in our cosy seats in the car, 
facing due south, behind a panting 
engine. "All aboard!" — and we 
smoothly glide forth on our way. 

Our eyes wander off into the dis- 
tance, and 'midst great clouds of dust 
95 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



we discern the cavalry, thirteen hundred 
strong, on their way over the barren, 
trackless prairie to hunt their hidden 
foe. A feeling of melancholy creeps over 
us as we watch them disappearing in 
the distance, until they appear as a 
mere speck on the edge of the horizon. 
The gentle rain commenced to fall, 
as though nature itself wept in sym- 
pathy. 

El Paso del Norte (meaning the 
northern pass), just over the river on 
the Mexican side, is a sleepy old Mex- 
ican town, the main points of interest 
being a musty and very ancient cathe- 
dral, doubtless grand in its day, a well- 
patronized cock-pit, and skating-rink. 
It is the gateway to Mexico, possesses 
a salubrious climate, and some pretty 
gardens, which are visible here and 
there. The first glimpse of Mexican 
life is here seen, but not of sufficient 
interest to detain the traveller, who an- 
ticipates penetrating farther into the 
96 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



country. An indifferent examination 
of baggage here occurs by the custom 
officials, and we are off again. 

A ride of 255 miles over a country 
possessing nothing of special interest 
brings us to the city of Chihuahua 
(pronounced She-wah-wah), capital of 
the state of the same name, a city of 
17,000 inhabitants. The houses are 
mostly built of adobe, generally in one 
story, and the long, straight streets, 
flanked on either side by these low, 
whitish-colored houses, soon become 
monotonous to the eye. 

The Grand Plaza, in the centre of 
which a handsome fountain is situated, 
is the lounging place of the citizens of 
all grades, and their characteristic 
indolence is strongly impressed upon 
the stranger as he sees them sunning 
themselves by day and contemplating 
or gossiping at night with the ever-pres- 
ent cigarette, as they stroll hither and 
thither. The crowds as they saunter 
97 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



about in their native costumes present 
a scene pleasingly picturesque, the som- 
brero^ the serape, and the reboso in 
varied colors rendering it a pretty 
sight. Here we see an aquadore with 
a large jug of water on his back, sus- 
pended by a leather band about his 
forehead ; in front of him hangs his 
smaller jug, sustained by a band pass- 
ing around the back of his head. 

Again, those of the wealthy class 
with their elegantly silver-trimmed so7n- 
breros, heavily braided short jackets, 
tight-fitting trousers, studded down the 
sides with buttons of silver. Mingling 
with the crowd are also the poorer 
classes, with their gaudy serapes loosely 
thrown over their shoulders, and wear- 
ing huaraches (leather sandals, fastened 
with straps over the instep and across 
the ball of the foot), a close inspection 
often revealing the fact that the blanket 
is the sole covering to the upper part of 
the body. 

q8 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



The pretty seiiora, poorly clad, with- 
out even a sandal, is lounging at the 
fountain, her shabbiness concealed by 
the usual black shawl gracefully thrown 
over her head and shoulders, extend- 
ing well down the body, showing 
bronzed feet and ankles, well modelled 
and graceful, though neither small nor 
soft in appearance ; the ever feminine 
characteristic is not wanting even here, 
for, conscious of her beauty, she Hfts 
her water-jug from her shoulder, and 
resting it on the edge of the fountain 
glances about with her brilliant black 
eyes ; her soft olive complexion, beauti- 
fully chiselled features, and regular 
white teeth render her a fascinating 
picture. 

The Church of Parroquia, called the 
Cathedral, is an imposing edifice, facing 
the Plaza, said to have cost $1,000,000 
— erected by levying a tax of one real 
(12I cents) on every mark ($8) of silver 
obtained from the mines near by. 
99 



En Route to the City of Mexico 



We visit it toward evening ; it is twi- 
light as we enter. We seat ourselves 
on one side to observe the service, 
which, being a feast day, brings to- 
gether a large number of worshippers 
— the rich and the poor, the high and 
the low, jostle each other for a place on 
which to kneel, but all is quiet when 
the service begins. 

The choir, without organ, renders the 
most enchanting music ; the charm of 
the twilight hour, the stillness of the 
multitude, as in their varied costumes 
they devoutly kneel, the great dome 
throwing back the echoes of the soft- 
est melodies, above which, at times, we 
can catch the twitter of birds as they 
fly from arch to arch, into which is 
mingled the soft sounds of the cooing 
pigeons in the towers, producing for 
the moment a sweet confusion — all 
these combine to present a scene that 
does not seem of earth and that will 
never fade from memory. 

lOO 



H fIDeyican Cock^lf iQbt 



AT the urgent request of a promi- 
nent citizen, we were prevailed 
upon to remain over and witness a 
" Peleas de gallos " (cock-fight), with the 
assurance that it would not last longer 
than five hours. We noticed bills 
posted about the streets, with illustra- 
tions suggestive of such an event, and 
our curiosity being aroused, we con- 
cluded to avail ourselves of the oppor- 
tunity to see the great battle. 

At ten o'clock in the morning, 
seated in a very antiquated vehicle, 
drawn by a pair of mules, we found 
ourselves being slowly dragged through 
the long, narrow, monotonous streets, 
the rate of speed being far from exhil- 
arating, as they scrambled along with 
the aid of language prepared expressly 

lOI 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



for them — it is an undisputed fact that 
a mule is never fresh or in good spirits 
when there is any work to be done. 

Approaching the suburbs we enter 
a beautiful, well-shaded avenue, over 
which the stately cottonwood trees 
nod their shadowy crests, breaking the 
rays of the morning sun ; a glistening 
stream of purest water, creeping its 
way through the winding road, glides 
at our side. 

A sudden branch off from this pleas- 
ing grove brings us to an unattractive 
collection of buildings, many of them 
seemingly deserted dwellings. 

In various directions we see approach- 
mggalleros (cock-fighters), each carry- 
ing a gamecock with a string and a 
small bit of wood attached to his 
leg. Alighting, we are ushered into a 
small adobe building, having no win- 
dows, the open door admitting the 
necessary light. Here were dispensed 
a variety of decoctions, pulque^ the 

I02 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



favorite drink of the Mexicans, pre- 
dominating, made from the century- 
plant. Here were gathered those in- 
terested in the approaching event ; 
earnest discussions regarding the rela- 
tive merits of the birds were indulged 
in, and a bedlam indeed it was, 'midst 
clouds of cigarette-smoke enough to 
smother any one but a Mexican. 

Passing through a narrow passage, 
we each pay one peseta (twenty-five 
cents), and enter the place where the 
fighting is to occur. A large high tent 
is here erected, covering some *20o 
feet square. Around, close to the 
sides, are perhaps a couple of hundred 
coops, inside of which can be seen the 
game creatures, each crowing lustily, as 
if he had just won a battle. 

The galleros are flocking in, many of 
them, after entering, squatting on the 
ground, holding in front of them their 
birds, hoping some Mexican ''sport" 
may purchase. Many Mexicans on 
103 



A Mexican Cock- Fight 



entering carefully inspect the various 
birds and after selecting their favorites, 
strike a trade with the owner, after 
which they go around offering to back 
them against others. Frequently the 
cocks will push their way out between 
the bars of the coop, and, although tied, 
make frantic efforts to reach another 
bird, displaying great ferocity ; often 
fights occur when two neighbors thus 
secure their limited freedom. 

In the centre of the tent is something 
similar to a large tub in shape, a round 
enclosure some twenty-five feet in di- 
ameter, sides three feet high, the bot- 
tom, of dirt, being smooth as a floor. 
This is the cock-pit ; arranged around 
this are rows of seats snug up to the 
pit, ascending as in a circus. 

The audience, a large one, is a study. 
The dignified, handsomely dressed 
Spaniard, with small piercing eyes like 
jet, standing in the pit, is the manager 
and is said to make a handsome income 
104 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



from the business ; being a good judge 
of the staying and fighting quahties of 
gamecocks, his bets are apt to show up 
on the credit side, and his advice is 
eagerly sought for, but he is a man of 
few words. 

Seated 'midst the crowd on the op- 
posite side is a Mexican dude, wearing 
a collar that raises his ears, trousers 
that fit like skin, a roundabout jacket 
braided in yellow, and a sombrero with 
a silver band ; near him a forlorn speci- 
men of a Mexican tramp, a man with a 
dirty complexion and handkerchief to 
match around his neck, insubordinate 
hair, standing on end ; he thrusts his 
hands into the place where his trousers' 
pockets used to be, as though he were 
chilly. 

Two picturesquely dressed Spanish 
girls just beyond, with blackest of hair, 
over which is carelessly thrown a black 
lace scarf, dressed in garments of bril- 
liant colors, displaying on their well- 
105 



A Mexican Cock-FIght 



turned wrists broad gold (or gilt ?) brace- 
lets, and innumerable rings on their 
delicate fingers, as they listlessly elevate 
to their lips sweet-scented cigarettes, 
clasped by silver holders ; the smoke 
curls lazily about their heads, as they 
languidly converse, seemingly uncon- 
scious of the delicately pointed high- 
heeled French shoes just peeping from 
beneath their rustling silks ! Again, 
the humble daughter of thepeon, almost 
in rags, is an earnest spectator, perhaps 
accompanied by her father and mother. 
All sorts and conditions of people are 
here. 

While the spectators are gathering, 
the birds are being prepared ; here is a 
Mexican looking more like the father 
of a family than one interested in cock- 
fighting ; he has a sharpening stone, 
and is hard at work sharpening the spur 
for his pet, like the delicate blade of a 
knife sharpened like a razor on the 
outer edge, curving the reverse of a 
io6 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



sickle, so that when the bird jumps up- 
ward and strikes, it will cut rather than 
penetrate like an ordinary spur ; the 
cock is held, and he carefully binds the 
spur on his right leg, only one spur be- 
ing used. The comb and wattle of the 
bird has been cut close to the head, to 
prevent an opponent from catching 
hold ; the tail is cut short — the whole 
bird, in fact, being trimmed down to as 
fine a point as possible. 

He carries him to the pit ; his oppo- 
nent is already there ; both are handled 
as carefully as though they were tender 
children, the owners fondly stroking 
them, examining their eyes, legs, etc. 
The birds are then weighed, the rule 
being that they must weigh within a 
few ounces of each other. 

Two men in red shirts, professional 
cock-fighters, then each take a bird ; 
going to opposite sides of the pit, they 
fill their mouths v/ith cold water, and 
spray it over their birds ; advancing at 
107 



A Mexican Cock-Fiorht 



the signal of the manager, they hold 
the birds beak to beak ; they snap and 
bite as their eyes flash like fire — they 
are famous Spanish gamecocks, the 
greatest fighters in the world ; with this 
breed, when once the fight begins, 
death alone on one side will end the 
battle. 

At another signal the men step back 
and drop the cocks to the ground — one 
is a dark red, the other a lighter shade ; 
both are strong-looking birds ; they 
stand and look around a moment, walk 
by each other, and then turn with a 
rush and clash like two bulls. 

The dark red springs up, bringing his 
spur over the other's head, too high ; 
by the time he reaches the ground, the 
other springs at him, sending his spur 
clean into his eye ; a shout ascends 
from the backers of the light red, and 
a dismal silence hangs over the friends 
of the dark red. 

As the fight grows more exciting the 
io8 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



dude emerges from his altitudinous 
collar, excitedly waves his sombrero, 
offering odds on the light red ; in a mo- 
ment the Spanish young lady is on her 
feet, shaking her bracelet in response to 
his wager. A few words in Spanish, 
and the bet is made. 

On goes the battle, the chickens leap- 
ing and lunging at each other with their 
razor-like spurs ; men and women are 
wild with excitement, yelling strange 
words of joy or disappointment as the 
battle progresses. The cock-fighters 
creep around the ring, each following 
his bird, but never being permitted to 
touch them ; they yell to their pets in 
wild Spanish oaths. 

In five minutes the two birds are so 
covered with blood about their heads 
that it is evident they cannot see, but 
still they fight, until a lunge from the 
light red lays his antagonist on the 
ground ; he still plunges and fights as 
he lies on his side, until at a signal the 
109 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



birds are seized by the galleros and 
taken to their respective corners. 

One grasps his bird, opens its mouth, 
and, finding it full of blood, he puts his 
own mouth to that of the bird, and 
sucks it out, also breathes into its nos- 
trils, again he sprays the bird with cold 
water from his own mouth — both sides 
again are ready, and the birds fight 
more vigorously than before. 

For fifteen minutes they cut and 
slash, the light red with his two eyes 
seeming to have an advantage over his 
antagonist with but one. He makes a 
desperate dash, sending his spur seem- 
ingly through the brain of the other. 
The dude cannot contain himself. He 
rises, mingling his voice with the yells 
of the multitude, then seats himself 
with a nine-inch smile settled on his 
countenance. 

The dark red still fights, showing 
wonderful endurance and pluck. It is 
evident that both his eyes are gone, 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



but his legs are strong. He plunges 
about at times, vainly trying to reach 
his foe. Blood is flowing from the 
mouths of both chickens, but the light 
red, with the advantage of his eyesight, 
sends his bloody steel, cutting away 
every feather from about the head of 
his blind opponent; both look very 
weak ; a moment's pause, and the light 
red, with desperate energy, sends his 
spur crashing into the head of the 
other, rolling him over on the ground. 
The dude, all smiles and shirt collar, 
wildly yells his joy; the light red, 
weak and shaky, attempts to crow ; but 
before he had finished the final note, 
the dark red jumped to his feet and 
leaped into the air, sending his spur 
clean into the brain of the light red, 
dropping him at his feet— death, the 
great peacemaker, had parted them for- 
ever. Then, although a victor, he sank 
to the ground, and in two minutes was 
dead also. The dude took a reef in 



A Mexican Cock-FIght 



his smile ; the young lady beamed as 
a gold coin landed in her lap, thrown 
by the bony fingers of the man with the 
collar. The excitement was intense, 
and a jabbering of voices filled the air. 

We waited to see a few more battles, 
but were glad to leave, happy to think 
that such exhibitions were not permit- 
ted in the States. 

Cock-fighting was fashionable in 
Greece some 500 years before Christ, 
and in England for a long period it was 
a favorite sport. The Briton practised 
" cocking " before the landing of Caesar. 
Henry VIII. established the Royal 
Cockpit at Westminster, and even dur- 
ing the present century some " mains " 
have been fought in it. A writer on 
poultry mentions a cock-fight in India 
for a lac of rupees (^10,000), but Eng- 
land in olden times was the head- 
quarters of cock-fighting. 

After dinner at a Mexican restaurant 
composed of very unpalatable stuff, 
112 



A Mexican Cock-FIght 



"very little to eat and a good deal of 
tablecloth," we started homeward by a 
circuitous route to see the city. It 
presents but little variety — a bull-ring 
in the distance was shown as one of 
the sights. 

Along the roads burro trains were 
slowly moving, carrying every conceiv- 
able thing, from potatoes to a stove ; 
men and women sauntering along as 
though they had eternity to do it in ; 
some of them bearing immense pack- 
ages on their heads, all of them pos- 
sessing that peculiar gliding hip motion 
which characterizes the gait of those 
accustomed to carry heavy weights on 
their heads. 

It was nearly twilight when we 
reached the plaza. The usual evening 
crowd was gathering there ; the gay 
cavaliers on their handsome horses 
pranced about ; the poorer citizens 
chatted and smoked ; the fountain 
splashed in the softened sunbeams; 
113 



A Mexican Cock-FIght 



strains of sweetest music were in the 
air, and all the world seemed happy.. 

Early morning finds us on our way. 
Passing southward, the country trav- 
ersed is generally barren and sterile. 
Through the States of Chihuahua, Du- 
rango, and Zacatecas (in the first two 
of which garnets and rubies are found), 
there is little of interest save here and 
there some towns which owe their 
existence to the rich mines ; lack of 
water and fuel being a great barrier to 
the growth and progress of the 
country. 

At these towns the extreme poverty 
of the people is sadly apparent, many 
of them existing in "dug-outs," and 
many of them in the open air, without 
shelter, the naked bodies of both men 
and women of all ages being visible 
under the filthy strips of rags that hang 
about their bodies, some of the profes- 
sional beggars having nothing but a 
loose skirt about their loins. 
114 



A Mexican Cock-FIeht 

o 



The main place of interest is the 
city of Zacatecas, one of the oldest 
mining towns in Mexico, being the 
richest in mineral wealth. It has an 
elevation of 8000 feet. A view from a 
hill near by presents a superb landscape 
of the surrounding country, the spurs 
of the Cordilleras adding much to the 
beauty of the scene. 

We pass Agua CaHentes (meaning 
hot water) noted for its hot springs, 
Silao, Queretaro, the latter founded by 
the Aztecs about the middle of the 
fifteenth century (opals are found here) ; 
its imposing and shapely bright-colored 
domes and towers are prominent ; the 
palm, banana, and other tropical trees 
add to its attraction. Leon, a large 
city of 80,000 souls, claims attention, 
next in size to the City of Mexico, cele- 
brated for its manufacture of leather 
goods. 

Passing on we enter a cultivated val- 
ley, dotted with fields of corn and 
115 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 

wheat ; the peon with his primitive 
plough toils in his sleepy way ; soon 
the tropical climate commences to show 
its effects in the arid soil, that stretches 
as far as the vision reaches, possessing a 
climate warm in winter and almost un- 
bearable in summer ; the country seems 
deserted by man and beast. 

In this desolate region vegetation 
assumes its wildest forms ; the pear 
cactus grows to large proportions, bear- 
ing a fruit called '* terna^' eaten by the 
natives ; the Spanish bayonet, with its 
slender green leaves, reaches a height 
of twenty-five feet or more ; the napal 
or cactus tree assumes the strangest 
of forms ; the maguey or aloe, often 
called the '' century plant," covers 
thousands of acres, attaining a height 
of from ten to fifteen feet. From this 
is made the national drink, '■^ pulque^'' 
the fermented sap of the plant. It has 
a milkish appearance, and possesses an 
agreeable flavor resembling lemonade. 

ii6 



A Mexican Cock-Fight 



Mescal is also made from the same 
plant. 

Nearing the City of Mexico, we see 
the pack trains of the ever-faithful burro 
— that little animal without which, it is 
said, Mexico could hardly exist — loaded 
down with live chickens and vegetables 
for the city markets. 

In the fields a dozen yoke of oxen, 
attached to a single plough, are lazily 
driven by a sleepy peo7i, his shining 
body naked save for a small cloth sus- 
pended from the waist, glistening in 
the sun. Great herds of goats, highly 
valued for their hides, graze in the 
fields. 

It is early morning as we approach 
the city, and through the clear atmos- 
phere can be seen the celebrated vol- 
cano, Popocatapetl, 17,700 feet high, 
being the highest mountain but one in 
North America. 

Seated at the open window, the vel- 
vety softness of the morning air gave 
117 



A Mexican Cock-Plght 



us new life ; we saw arise that ball of 
gold so soon to illuminate yonder val- 
ley. The city allured us on, its towers 
and domes glittering as the last star 
faded from view and the morning rays 
broke forth, presenting a scene of 
striking beauty. 



ii8 



^be Cit? of fReylco* 



A Morning Eiitry — Street Scenes — Flower 
Girls and Beggars — A Favorite Drive — 
Night Aspects — The Paseo and Canal— 
A Passion Play — Guadalupe. 

THE rosy morning was just steal- 
ing forth as we entered the City 
of Mexico; the morning star, with its 
solemn eye of light, looked down from 
out the brightening sky on the great 
slumbering city — its many pinnacles 
and domes standing out in strong relief 
against the glowing heavens. Strange 
thoughts, that always fill one's mind on 
entering an old city — a city steeped in 
the lore of history and traditions, and 
brimming over with legends — crowded 
upon us. 

Our feehngs and fancies are envel- 
oped in an atmosphere of poetry and 
119 



The City of Mexico 



romance as we gaze about us — the old, 
odd buildings seemed to speak to us 
of ages and a tribe long since passed 
away, and make us feel that this world 
can go on without us if we would but 
think so. 

We had hardly stepped forth into 
the street when there fell on our ear 
the shuffling tramp of a body of march- 
ing men ; we turned, only to behold a 
band of professional convicts — desper- 
ate characters, so we were told — guard- 
ed by officers with drawn revolvers; 
a more hardened, desperate-looking 
set, it has never been our lot to see ; 
their iron bracelets clanked a dismal 
tune as they sullenly went their way ; 
such filth and degradation can hardly 
be conceived. We carried away with 
us a lasting souvenir of the stench- 
laden atmosphere. And yet there was 
a horrible fascination in closely observ- 
ing them, as a study of morbid mental 
anatomy, — the anatomy of a being 



The City of Mexico 



whose mental constitution is so de- 
praved, so lost to all sense of honor as 
to seemingly take delight in deeds of 
crime. 

Our sympathies always have been 
with the poor, helpless worm that the 
ever-glorified early bird captures, and, 
notwithstanding the hour, we were cap- 
tured by the ever-present cabman, who 
bore down upon us, overpowering us 
with his wild gestures and torrent of 
Spanish overflow, not one word of 
which could we understand, in spite of 
the careful study of our phrase-books 
for two whole days before. 

An informal inspection of our baggage 
by the customs, over, found us whirling 
in one of the noisest of cabs to the hotel. 
All cabs are required by law to display 
on a flag-pole, about six inches high, 
erected by the side of the driver, a 
green, blue, red, or white flag, the color 
designating the grade of the cab and 
the price per hour ; a green flag being 

121 



The City of Mexico 



first-class, and so on ; when engaged 
the flag is hauled down. 

After being carefully delivered at the 
hotel, we mount to our rooms, phrase- 
book in hand. Desiring some creature 
comforts which were wanting in our 
rooms, we lustily called, ''Camarista " — 
(chambermaid) — when a little sallow- 
faced fellow, who looked as though he 
had just dropped from a Christmas- 
tree, came running to us, and, with the 
regulation gestures and antics, per- 
suaded us that he was the chamber- 
maid ! And throughout our travels in 
Mexico we found men generally serv- 
ing in that capacity. 

The City of Mexico, capital of the 
republic, with a population of about a 
quarter of a million, as is well known, 
is situated on ground that was for- 
merly an island in Lake Texcoco. The 
name is derived from Mexitli, the 
Aztec war-god. 

In brief, the story of its origin runs 



The City of Mexico 



thus : The Aztecs, while wandering 
about the country, met a rival tribe, 
the Colhuans ; being defeated in battle 
and pursued, they marched to the val- 
ley of Mexico. An oracle had com- 
manded them not to found a city until 
they had come to a spot where an 
eagle should be seen standing on a 
rock. They shortly after beheld, in 
their wanderings, an eagle perched on 
a cactus growing out of a rock ; hence 
they founded a city, caUing it Tenoch- 
titlan — meaning " cactus upon a rock." 
Under this name it was the capital of 
the old empire of Anahuac. 

Hence on the national flag, as also 
on some of the coins, will be seen the 
device of an eagle with a serpent in its 
beak, perched on a cactus protruding 
from a rock. The city has an eleva- 
tion of 7400 feet above the sea level, 
and a mean temperature of 60° Fahr. 

A stroll through the streets reminds 
one, in some respects, of portions of 
123 



The City of Mexico 



Paris. They are straight, many of 
them broad and attractive. French- 
looking shops adorn the principal 
street, which leads from the Plaza 
Mayor to the Alemada, the favorite 
rendezvous of the citizens. The for- 
mer is situated opposite the great Ca- 
thedral, the largest in North America, 
an edifice begun in 1573, and completed 
in 1667, at a cost of $1,800,000. 

It covers a space of about 400 x 200 
feet. The architecture is an irregular 
mixture of Gothic and Italian styles. 
Two majestic ornamented towers with 
statues, stand some two hundred feet 
high. The interior is rich with superb 
paintings and numerous crucifixes and 
candlesticks of gold and silver, adorned 
with jewels. 

Here one sees gathered, at almost 
any time of day or night, the scantily 
clad peon, bending low in prayer, never 
for one moment, however, unmindful 
of his cigarette, which still smokes 
124 



The City of Mexico 



from his sallow, bony fingers. Again 
the richly costumed Spanish beauty, 
with languishing manner, kneels near 
by, her beautiful hair artistically " dis- 
arranged " over her shapely head. 

On another side of the Plaza Mayor 
is the palace, the largest building in 
Mexico, measuring nearly six hun- 
dred and eighty feet. Many rare 
paintings are here found, and the cele- 
brated Maximilian coach. In the cen- 
tre of the Plaza is the Zocalo, where 
concerts are given on certain days. 
This is the place to see a most pic- 
turesque gathering of the natives of 
all grades and classes, many of them in 
striking and attractive costumes, stroll- 
ing, lolling, and chatting, while listen- 
ing to the music, which is of a high 
order, generally performed by the mili- 
tary band. 

A select party of gentlemen, stand- 
ing near by, probably men of leisure, 
are arrayed for an afternoon stroll, each 
125 



The City of Mexico 



with a handsome sombrero of light 
gray color, made of felt, having a very 
wide brim, the crown trimmed with 
silver braid, the brim heavily embroid- 
ered with silver thread ; a short jacket 
trimmed with braid, and tight-fitting 
trousers, studded down the side with 
glittering silver buttons. 

Within a few feet comes the ever- 
present beggar, one of the pests of 
Mexico, bareheaded, v/ith trousers that 
have existed through unnumbered gen- 
erations, the remnant of which is hardly 
sufficient to cover one limb, the only 
other covering to his body consisting of 
a shirt so tattered as to reveal beneath 
his dark scaly skin. 

The foreigner is a favorite mark for 
a beggar. He crawls up to you with a 
groan that would break the heart of a 
paving-stone, crosses himself, and looks 
unutterable things. You gladly toss 
him a medio {6\ cents), and quickly 
seek a purer atmosphere. 
126 



The City of Mexico 



A little farther on a young Mexican 
girl, whose parents have a stand at the 
flower-market near by, where the choic- 
est and most exquisitely arranged bou- 
quets can be had at absurdly low 
prices, stands drinking in the music, 
while plying her trade among the 
throng. She well understands the art 
of selling, in her simple, pretty cos- 
tume, rather decollete, her head uncov- 
ered, her bodice fitting closely to her 
pretty figure, the short skirt girded 
closely to the limbs. She was a pic- 
ture there, with a bunch of crimson and 
white flowers in her hand, which 
seemed to blend their delicate tints 
with her pretty olive complexion — the 
gentle breeze softly stirring her loosely 
arranged hair, catching the last bright- 
ness of the sun's rays. 

We stand admiring the scene, much 
of which was beautiful, and all was 
striking and interesting, when our med- 
itation is interrupted by a hollow 
127 



The City of Mexico 



whisper in our ear, and, turning, be- 
hold another beggar, an old woman. 
A rapid inventory of her features made 
our blood stand on end (let us say). 
Such a countenance, such rags we had 
never seen. Another medio, and we 
quickly escape. 

Sauntering behind come a quartette 
of Spanish ladies, doubtless of the 
higher order — the elderly ladies digni- 
fied and haughty ; the younger ones 
pretty and graceful. Not all Mexican 
women are pretty, but certainly many 
of them render themselves attractive 
by means best known to themselves. 
The delicate and refined outlines of 
their features, the soft tint of their rich 
complexions, the dreamy expression of 
their large, dark, quiet eyes, added to 
great symmetry of form, make them 
strangely fascinating. 

One of the most attractive drives is 
the Paseo de la Reforma, or Calzada 
de Chapultepec, laid out under the su- 
128 



The City of Mexico 



pervision of Maximilian. It is a spa- 
cious avenue, several miles in length, 
adorned with monuments and statues 
of high merit ; an imposing monument 
of marble and bronze erected in honor 
of Christopher Columbus stands out in 
bold relief against the sky, being one 
of the most attractive. 

At certain distances circular spaces 
some three hundred feet in diameter, 
called GloriettaSj are devoted to monu- 
ments. This grand drive leads to the 
celebrated grove and castle of Chapul- 
tepec. The grove, once a swamp, is now 
overgrown with cedars of magnificent 
proportions, some of them attaining a 
size of forty feet in circumference, their 
mighty limbs fringed with beautiful 
gray Spanish moss, so abundant there. 

The castle occupies a commanding 
position on a rocky hill considerably 
above the plain. The President of the 
republic resides here in princely style, 
and the National Military School has 
129 



The City of Mexico 



its quarters within the walls of the 
structure. The view from the castle 
is one of unsurpassed beauty ; the city 
below, the mountains in the distance, 
the cultivated fields, all aiding to cre- 
ate a panorama of rare beauty. 

The return drive late in the after- 
noon through the noble avenue of 
trees was most charming. The soft 
air, fragrant with the breath of the 
mountain and plain, served to fit us 
still more to enjoy the scene ; the 
gentle breezes fanned our cheeks, after 
the heat of the day; the coolness and 
the twilight seemed to descend like a 
benediction upon the earth. 

Showy equipages, with pretty, laugh- 
ing women, dashed past us ; officers in 
their gold-braided uniforms and with 
clanking spurs, riding handsome horses, 
accompanied by prancing ponies lashed 
by delicate hands, passed in quick suc- 
cession. In the distance, reaching up 
into the skies, stood grave and wor- 
130 



The City of Mexico 



shipful the grand volcanoes Popocate- 
petl and Iztaccihuatl, the former about 
17,000 feet high. 

Reaching the city by twilight, we 
enter one of the fashionable restau- 
rants, where are gathered the wealthier 
Mexicans for dinner. Near at hand 
are palms and pretty plants, from the 
midst of which rises a cooling fountain, 
its sprays of sparkling waters serving 
to refresh the evening air. Many of the 
ladies, while sipping their Media taza 
caf^, gracefully puff sweetly-scented 
cigarettes held in pretty silver holders. 

A walk about the city at night pre- 
sents many odd scenes ; the narrow, 
crooked streets, with beautiful old bal- 
conies overhanging the way, on which 
whole families assemble clad in airy, 
light-colored garments, is one of the 
interesting characteristics. The houses 
are built of heavy masonry, with stair- 
ways of stone, everything being fire- 
proof. 

131 



The City of Mexico 



Entering one of them, we find an 
open courtyard or patio, adorned in 
the centre with statuary, flowers, and a 
fountain ; passing on, we look into the 
wide-open doorway of another house, 
occupied by those of the poorer classes. 
A few earthern pots, two or three large 
stones on which to grind their corn are 
visible ; near the door is a woman on 
her knees, grinding corn for tortillas. 
A young girl mixes it with water, pats 
it into flat, round cakes, and puts it to 
bake on a stove. We invested in a few, 
but did not repeat the purchase. 

The streets are well guarded at night 
by police ; at the intersection of the 
streets there stands in the centre a guar- 
dia civil with a lantern ; hence in a sud- 
den emergency, an ofBcer is readily 
found. In the centre of the city is the 
Alemada, a beautiful park, with foun- 
tains, and walks, and abundant growth 
of trees and plants. In many parts of 
the city, even in the better localities, 
132 



The City of Mexico 



an unpleasant and unhealthy odor 
arises. There being no sewers, it is 
what might be expected. 

Churches abound, and we pass them 
seemingly on every side; their towers and 
domes clearly outhned against the sky, 
assist in rendering the scene impressive. 

The city was once a collection of 
nunneries and monasteries, and, while 
the large gloomy buildings still exist, 
they are now used for schools and other 
purposes. 

The evening air is soft and pleasant, 
and we linger in the streets until the 
clocks notify us that the small hours 
are near at hand ; but this season of 
the year, called el extio — the dry season 
— makes us feel as though we were 
sacrificing much to go in-doors and shut 
out such lovely air. The other season, 
la estacion de las aquas, or the rainy 
season, comprising the months of June, 
July, August, and September, is damp 
and consequently less agreeable. 
133 



The City of Mexico 



An early morning start brings us first 
to the flower-market. Whole families 
seated about are busily engaged in ar- 
ranging flowers of rare beauty and frag- 
rance. Such a wealth of roses ! Their 
sweet breath has a language more elo- 
quent than words. The flower-girls, with 
their olive complexions and brilliant 
eyes of jet, their white teeth, beautiful 
hair in long braids carelessly swung 
over well-rounded shoulders, with skirts 
gathered short to the uncorseted waist, 
nimbly ply their delicate fingers so 
rapidly that they weave bouquets as it 
were by magic, the roses, the lilies, and 
the forget-me-nots dropping into their 
places, and forming garlands and 
wreaths of endless variety. 

Then to the market square, near the 
palace, where a throng of lazy men and 
loosely-dressed women, with robust 
voices, implore you to purchase almost 
every article of household necessity, 
including fruits and vegetables. Water- 
134 



The City of Mexico 



carriers, with their earthen jars slung 
over their heads, are passing to and 
fro, delivering the morning supply of 
water from house to house. 

The little burro, that tiny quadruped 
so necessary to Mexicans, hardly yet 
awake, is pushed along by his master. 
The little fellows, in groups of a dozen 
or more, are loaded down with every- 
thing from a chicken to a stove. The 
slightest laxity on the part of his 
master, and he stops short to nibble at 
the nearest thing at hand, be it an old 
shoe or a tin can. The question was 
once asked, " Can a burro driver be a 
Christian?" the answer being, "He 
might if he tried very hard, but he 
would have to give up driving burros." 

Mexico presents few scenes of in- 
tenser interest than the Paseo de la Viga 
and the canal adjoining it ; it is well 
worth the ride in the horse-cars to visit 
it, especially during Holy Week. The 
journey is one of unbroken interest. 
135 



The City of Mexico 



The dignified Mexican lady and her 
two daughters opposite to us in the 
cars puff their cigarettes with an air of 
elegance as though they knew they 
were doing the correct thing ; the Mexi- 
can gentleman near by holds his pretty 
baby as she plays with and pulls at the 
vicious-looking revolver suspended at 
his side ; while his well-powdered wife 
chats with a bedecked officer. 

Following us, on the same track, 
comes an open car, painted black and 
hung with mourning ; in the centre, 
elevated on a narrow platform, in full 
view, is a coffin — a hearse, indeed, on 
its sad errand. 

Approaching the more sparsely set- 
tled districts, bands of goats are seen 
nibbling among cacti and thorny plants. 
These animals are reared in large num- 
bers through the whole country for 
their tallow, the milk being little used ; 
a good fat goat yielding about ten 
pounds of tallow; hence the poorer 
136 



The City of Mexico 



classes derive a revenue of some conse- 
quence from breeding the animal. 

On the larger estates — haciendas — 
these animals, as well as sheep, which 
are also largely bred for their tallow, 
rather than the wool, which is inferior, 
are reared in immense herds ; also 
cattle, mules, and horses ; herds of 
8000 and 10,000 are often seen on one 
estate. The vaqueros, or herdsmen, 
who live among the herds, are probably 
the most daring horsemen in the world. 

We have now arrived at the Paseo 
de la Viga and the canal of the same 
name running parallel with it. The 
scene is a busy one. The Aztec boat- 
men are bringing in on their flat- 
bottomed boats or canoes, from the 
so-called floating islands, the vegetables 
for the market. 

Scores of Indians are there, with 
rafts on which is constructed an awn- 
ing. We hire one ; and reclining on the 
bottom, the Indian skilfully '' poles " 
137 



The City of Mexico 



it up the stream as he chants a tune, 
doubtless of his own composition. 
Canoes are shooting in every direction, 
some loaded with vegetables, others 
with human freight. 

The chinampas or floating islands 
are really a thing of the past, but the 
sail through the narrow canals cut in 
the marshy soil, where fruits, vege- 
tables, and flowers grow abundantly, is 
enchanting. Some of the canoes are 
gaily ornamented, some have mandolin 
players, the delicate music blending 
sweetly with the ripple of the water as 
the canoes dart back and forth. 

Along the banks the natives in their 
picturesque costumes are gathered in 
large numbers. It is Holy Week, and 
many are making a holiday of it ; some 
are indulging in their favorite drink, 
pulque, others in orchata, chia, and 
other Mexican beverages ; all are smok- 
ing as usual ; the lottery-ticket vender 
pleadingly urges you to buy, as he or 
138 



The City of Mexico 



she thrusts a ticket into your face ; the 
children are assisting in the babel by 
vigorously twirling the matracas, a 
rattle producing a shrill sound in- 
tended to represent and ridicule the 
cries of the Jews, " Crucify Him," as 
they followed Christ to His death. 

Beyond is the Etcramada, a long 
arbor-like summer-house, under which 
is playing the military band, the music 
being of rare excellence. The tech- 
nical brilliancy, the deft gradation of 
tonal coloring, the intensity of feeling 
with which it was rendered was indeed 
alluring. 

The spacious avenue, bordered with 
trees, presented a scene that few cities 
can surpass in point of brilliancy ; 
elegant carriages of every variety, 
drawn by spirited horses in richest 
harness, rolled briskly along ; eques- 
trians of all ages, seated on saddles, 
which in many cases are studded with 
buttons of gold, dash past, a gUstening 
139 



The City of Mexico 



revolver being in most cases a conspic- 
uous part of their '' get-up." With 
hardly an exception all are superior 
riders, possessing grace and dash rarely 
seen elsewhere. 

We return by another route, driving 
over a shaded road, the fierce rays of 
the sun at times, however, penetrating 
the abundant foliage, scorching us in 
spots. The adobe one-story houses of 
the poorer classes were dotted along 
the roadside ; the laborers were having 
their usual midda.y siesta o( about three 
hours, and few were visible. By the 
roadside flowed a stream — careless and 
indolent, it seemed to love the country 
and was in no haste to reach its destina- 
tion ; a few children were wading and 
playing in the cool water, while seated 
on the bank, about preparing for a 
bath, and engaged in earnest conversa- 
tion, were two women in nature's 
broadcloth ; they seemed quite indiffer- 
ent to our presence. 
140 



The City of Mexico 



During the afternoon we witnessed 
one of the strangest customs of this 
strange country — the burning of the 
Judases; figures as large as Hfe, repre- 
senting Judas Iscariot, were perched 
up on poles, and in many instances 
strung across the street from house to 
house, filled with firecrackers and other 
noisy explosives, and amid the shouts 
of the people and the ear-piercing 
rattle of the matracas^ these images 
are exploded and burned, creating a 
wild scene. 

The theatres are more numerous than 
attractive. We sat for ten hours wit- 
nessing the celebrated " Passion Play." 
Families having boxes brought along 
the babies as well as the family dogs. 
They had their lunch-baskets, and 
parents as well as the older children 
smoked cigarettes, all the while witness- 
ing the play, which certainly was most 
impressive and solemn, and a large num- 
ber were seemingly deeply affected by it. 
141 



The City of Mexico 



The suburb of Guadalupe contains 
the most celebrated sanctuary in the 
republic, built in 1622, costing some 
$800,000; the railing extending from 
the choir to the altar is of pure solid 
silver. The origin of its erection was 
told us by an aged Mexican, who smiled 
as though he mistrusted our believing 
it. 

"An old Indian, named Juan Die- 
go, once saw in a rainbow the figure of 
a woman ; she told him she was the 
Virgin, and that he must go to the 
Bishop, state what he had seen, and say 
that she desired a temple built on the 
hill near by; she ordered him to pluck 
some flowers from a barren rock, where 
none had previously grown ; he did as 
he was commanded, but at first the 
Bishop paid no heed to him, and in 
turning away the Indian dropped the 
flowers, when the Bishop suddenly fell 
prostrate on seeing the image of the 
blessed Virgin seemingly painted on 
142 



The City of Mexico 



the cloak of the Indian." This cloak, 
with the image of the Virgin, is seen 
in the temple; ribbons, showing the 
size of the Virgin's head, are sold at 
the door. 

The small chapel in the rear, and the 
cemetery are full of interest. Our an- 
tiquated informant solemnly ushered 
us around the cemetery, explaining 
points of interest. On some tomb- 
stones was carved the word " Perpetu- 
idad!' These, he explained, meant 
that the families owned the plot and 
the monuments for ever, paying for 
such the sum of $250. A payment of 
$100 secured the plot and monument 
to the purchaser for a period of six 
years, after which time the plot as well 
as the monument or tombstone could 
be resold to others. Small altars, can- 
dles, lamps, and trinkets adorn many 
of the graves. 

We do not attempt a description of 
the museum, where pictures of rare 
143 



The City of Mexico 



merit of the old masters can be seen. 
Again the Sacrificial stone, on which 
thousands and tens of thousands of 
human beings have been sacrificed^ 
their still pulsating hearts being cut 
out, while the red blood of the victims 
streamed down the deep gutters cut in 
the stone for that purpose. 

Our last evening was devoted to 
a ride in the country. The warm 
though beautiful day had a fit closing 
in one of the most glowing sunsets that 
ever brightened earth. We rode away 
over the roads that had grown hard 
under the tread of generations, leaving 
behind us the throngs that hasten end- 
lessly through the crowded city. The 
busy crowds — what restlessness, what 
fruitless ambitions, fainting hopes, des- 
perate despair, hold the brains of these 
creatures. 

The fresh, green fields of nature 
seem to rest us. The broad expanse 
of country, the sweep of mountains 
144 



The City of Mexico 



wrought in noble beauty, made har- 
mony for the soul. The crescent moon 
was set like a silver signet in the sky, 
and shadows lay minutely pencilled on 
the turf below. There was a transparent 
stillness in the air which it seemed un- 
holy to disturb, guarded as we were by 
the ever-living stars, which were twink- 
ling high in the sky. 



145 



3!6ulU3figbting in flDeyico* 



An Unnatural and Degrading Amusement 
— Morbid Blood thirstiness of Spectators 
— Sickenifig Sights — An Illustration of 
the Power of Kindness. 

BULL-FIGHTING, a remnant of 
barbarism, still exists in Mexico. 
Not being permitted within the city 
proper, the bull-ring has been placed 
just six feet outside the city limits, and 
here is the Plaza de Toros del Huisachal, 
where the best bull-fighting occurs. 

The drive out through the beautiful 
avenue, Paseo de la Reforma, presents 
an opportunity to study the various 
grades of the Mexican populace. Few 
private equipages were visible, but hired 
cabs, hacks, and every kind of vehicle 
were brought into requisition, while the 
146 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 

roads and pathways were crowded with 
throngs of the lowest and dirtiest of 
pedestrians, from the ten-year-old boy 
and girl to the infirm and aged, all hur- 
rying breathless and perspiring to the 
exciting scene. Arriving at the Plaza 
de Toros, a struggling mass of human- 
ity is excitedly rushing for tickets and 
seats. 

The bull-ring is a large, circular, 
wooden building, roofless, with seats 
arranged like an amphitheatre, the rear 
ones and most elevated being private 
boxes— /^^M^r/fm^— the prices for them 
ranging from four to eight dollars ; the 
seats are classified according to their 
relative position to the sun— the entrada 
general d sombra, or general admission 
to the shady side, being one dollar, and 
the entrada general a sol to the sunny 
side being thirty-seven and a half cents. 
The arena is large, nearly twice the size 
of an ordinary circus-ring. 

Outside of the arena, and extending 
147 



BuIl-Fighting In Mexico 



the entire distance around, is a strong 
board fence some six feet in height, 
creating a space of some five feet be- 
tween the ring and the front or lowest 
row of seats. This is necessary as a 
protection to the spectators, should the 
bull leap over the side of the ring, which 
he frequently does. Inside the ring, 
at equal distances, are placed screens, 
leaving sufficient space only for the 
body of a man between them and the 
side wall of the ring ; these are resorted 
to as places of refuge by the bull-fight- 
ers, when too closely pursued by the 
bull in his madness. The amphitheatre 
is said to hold about twelve thousand 
people. 

The crowd, to the number of at least 
ten thousand, soon fill the amphithea- 
tre ; yells and shouts and the jabbering 
of the mixed crowd fill the air, and 
" Toros," " Toros," is heard on every 
side. A wilder and more restless assem- 
blage can hardly be conceived. 
148 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



We were allowed a private view of 
the bulls before the fighting began, and 
we bravely looked through the cracks 
of the enclosure in which they were 
separately corralled. They were huge 
creatures, with restless, sullen eyes, and 
horns of ugly preportions, seemingly 
shaped for the purposes of goring. 
Returning to our hunbrera, situated 
next to the judge's, we seated ourselves 
as the time approached. 

The band strikes up a stirring march 
at the blast of a bugle from the judge's 
box, the heavy gates are thrown open 
— all eyes are turned — here come the 
toreadoreSy bull-fighters, in the Salida 
de la Quadrilla, dressed in fancy bril- 
liant-colored costumes, spangles glitter- 
ing in the sun, like so many diamonds. 

All are bareheaded, with the excep- 
tion of the matadores ; they wear short 
round-about velvet jackets, some black, 
some of crimson and other glaring 
colors^ knee-breeches, white stockings, 
149 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



and low shoes or slippers. Short cloaks, 
trimmed with gold lace and braid, care- 
lessly thrown over their shoulders, com- 
plete their costumes. 

They march forward to the time of a 
quickstep, foremost being the mata- 
dores, those who kill the bull with a 
sword, the heroes of the day, then the 
banderilleroSj who thrust the cruel iron- 
barbed darts into the neck of the ani- 
mal ; next the capas, who tease the bull 
with gayly colored cloths, followed by 
\h.t picadores riding on horses, spear in 
hand, with which to torture the mad- 
dened beast, the horses being blind- 
folded to prevent their fleeing when the 
bull charges them ; finally come six 
richly harnessed mules, three abreast, 
with jingling bells ; these are to drag 
out the carcasses of the dead. 

They march around the ring to the 

cheers of the multitude, and, halting 

before the judge's box, the matador 

looks up to receive his orders. A few 

150 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



words in Spanish, and the bull-fighters 
distribute themselves around the ring, 
while the mules are conducted back to 
their quarters. A pause here occurs, 
the previously tumultuous crowd set- 
tling into silence. 

The exciting moment has arrived. 
All eyes turn to the judge's stand — he 
rises, and blows a shrill blast on the 
bugle. The creaking sound of the 
rusty hinges alone breaks the silence, 
as the heavy gates swing open — ten 
thousand pairs of eyes are fixed on that 
spot. 

A hasty glance at that sea of faces 
revealed a sight never to be forgotten ; 
nervous expectant excitement was de- 
picted on every face, some pale, others 
flushed, but all intent on one thing. 
Another moment's delay, and in dashed 
a huge black bull, his head high in the 
air, his eyes flashing fire. He pauses a 
moment, lashing his sides in fury with 
his tail, while pawing the ground as he 
151 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



looks about him, seemingly puzzled at 
the sight, as the red cloths are taunt- 
ingly shaken at him. 

From his back gay-colored streamers 
are flying to the breeze ; these are a 
portion of a huge rosette which is 
attached to a large hook, and as the 
bull enters the arena a man reaches 
over the side fence and plunges the 
hook into the animal's back, the pain 
caused thereby serving to increase the 
fury of the already excited beast. 

The band strikes up a brilliant waltz, 
silence gives place to intense excite- 
ment, and amid the urgent yells and 
calls of the crowd to the capas, they 
menacingly run forward, and, as the 
breeze catches the bright-colored cloths, 
the bull lowers his head, and tossing 
his tail wildly in the air, he charges on 
the nearest one at hand — the capa skil- 
fully jumps to one side, leaving the 
cloth suspended on the horns of the 
bull. Tossing it off, he makes a rush 
152 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



for another of his tormentors in the 
centre of the ring; so quick was he, 
however, that the fleeing bull-fighter 
reached the screen a few inches only 
ahead of the infuriated beast, and saved 
himself by taking refuge behind it. 

The other capas, seeing the peril of 
their fellow, rushed after the bull, yell- 
ing and waving their cloaks to distract 
him ; the animal, quickly turning, and 
seeing himself encircled, made a desper- 
ate charge, chasing them pell-mell across 
the ring, most of them clambering des- 
perately and ungracefully over the side ; 
but one fellow, less agile than the rest, 
was caught on the horns of the bull 
and hurled violently over into the front 
row of the audience, the small boys 
scrambling away vigorously to make 
room as they beheld the new arrival 
approaching. The fellow, being caught 
in his side, was badly injured. 

While being carried out amidst the 
cheers of the crowd, a number of silver 
153 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



dollars and smaller bits of money were 
thrown to him. 

A moment later a picador, spear in 
hand, driving his spurs into the sides of 
his horse, dashed across the arena, amid 
the cheers of ten thousand voices. At 
first the bull seemed inclined to retreat, 
and apparently was about doing so, 
when the picador swiftly thrust his 
sharp spear into him, a stream of blood 
trickling down the side of the perspir- 
ing animal. 

The eyes of the bull rolled viciously, 
he savagely tore up the ground with his 
forefeet, and lashing his tail, he lowered 
his huge head for a charge ; gathering 
himself, he made one desperate plunge, 
sending his horns into the body of the 
poor horse, lifting horse and rider for 
an instant clear into the air. 

The horse fell on his side, the picador 
partly under him ; but quickly extricat- 
ing himself, he sought shelter behind a 
screen near at hand. The bull, with 
154 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



bloodshot eyes, drew back as though 
looking for the picador, and, seemingly 
not knowing just where to wreak his 
vengeance, again rushed at the horse, 
tearing a yawning gap in his side, from 
which his entrails protruded. The 
terrified, suffering horse struggled to 
his feet and ran a dozen yards, but 
quickly sank to the ground, trembling 
with fear and pain — a sickening sight 
indeed; he ceased to move in a few 
moments. 

Another shrill bugle blast from the 
judge's stand, and the bayiderilleros 
come forward for their part of the 
sport. They each hold two long sharp 
barbs, decorated with gayly-colored 
streamers. Bowing to the judge, upon 
a signal from him, they advance to the 
centre of the ring, holding aloft the 
barbs while advancing towards the bull. 
The already furious beast needs little 
aggravation to battle, and with lowered 
head he makes a furious onslaught, 
155 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



receiving in each shoulder one of the 
barbs, which the practised hand 
swiftly and surely thrusts several 
inches deep into the quivering flesh. 

A thrust into the shoulder of a bull, 
however infuriated, invariably causes 
him to pause in his charge, and hence, 
if the banderillero is successful in plant- 
ing the barbs in the correct spot, he 
has time to escape, but the feat re- 
quires him to come in dangerous prox- 
imity to the horns of the bull. 

Again the other banderillero runs for- 
ward, and amid the yells of delight and 
approval of the now over-wild multi- 
tude, he thrusts two more darts into 
the bleeding animal, which feat is re- 
peated until the poor brute is decorated 
with half-a-dozen or more of these em- 
blems of barbarity. 

The maddened, bewildered, wounded 

bull now stands in the centre of the 

ring, with blood oozing from a dozen 

wounds. He bellows loudly in his 

156 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



frenzy, paws the ground, and looks 
around at his tireless tormentors. 

With an evident effort he again 
charges with a rush, as the crowd 
shouts with delight and the band plays 
its gayest strain; almost crazy, and 
dizzy from the loss of blood he rushes 
wildly across the ring, and in despera- 
tion leaps over the fence. His hind 
feet catching, he lands in a heap — the 
audience in that neighborhood quickly 
scatter; but the danger is slight on 
account of the high protecting fence. 
The bull-fighters quickly drive him out 
again into the ring, and after more teas- 
ing and tormenting the sound of the 
judge's bugle causes them to cease. 

The gates swing open, the picadores 
retire, and one of the matadores— neither 
of whom thus far has taken any part in 
the sport— presents himself before the 
judge's stand, holding in his left hand 
a sharp pointed sword about three feet 
long. A brief command from the 



157 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



judge, he lifts his broad-brimmed som- 
brero and vigorously sends it twirling 
into the centre of the ring — displaying 
a head of black hair, closely cropped, 
with the exception of the centre of the 
back of the head, where it is permitted 
to grow to a length of about six inches, 
this being tied up with a ribbon resem- 
bling closely a pig-tail as it stands out 
from the head. This is the insignia of 
most of the famous matadores. 

An attendant hands the matador a 
small flaming red cloth, and he now 
advances to the bull. He is of medium 
size, a man apparently with muscles 
of steel and nerves like electricity. 
Eyes of jet, quick as lightning, ever on 
the alert and accurately correct, well- 
poised on his limbs, he steps forward 
to his dangerous task with a delightful 
air of confidence. 

Not every man with mere strength 
and courage can be a matador ; it 
requires, in addition to these other 
158 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



characteristics, calm, cool judgment at 
a certain very critical moment. When 
the bull charges on a dead run, he must 
stand his ground until the horns of the 
beast are within two feet of his breast, 
and at that perilous moment elevate 
his long sword, and with a single thrust 
sink it into the spot where it cuts the 
pulsating heart of the animal ; a 
moment's miscalculation, and his own 
life may be sacrificed. 

The other bull-fighters retire to one 
side, leaving the arena largely to the 
matador and the bull. The music stops, 
and silence prevails. The red shawl is 
swung back and forth towards the bull, 
who stands across the ring with lowered 
head, panting and bleeding from many 
wounds. 

The keen-edged sword of the ma- 
tador glistens as he elevates it prepara- 
tory to giving the coup de grace. He 
advances coolly but cautiously, his eyes 
riveted on the bull, who, a moment 
159 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



later, tossing his head, comes crashing 
forward, straight for the matador, who 
remains transfixed to the spot with his 
sword raised. The horns of the bull 
are just grazing the breast of the 
matador, whose gleaming steel de- 
scends like a streak of lightning, bury- 
ing it to the hilt into the quivering 
flesh, and the bull, as if shot, drops to 
the ground, amid howls of delight 
from the multitude, while the music 
bursts forth in a lively strain. 

For a few moments the matador, 
who stands as a hero, is showered with 
glittering coin and bundles of cigars, 
tokens of approval from his blood- 
thirsty admirers. 

Jingling bells announce the approach 
of the mules, who are driven in and 
quickly attached to the horns of the 
bull, and, making one circle of the 
ring, they bear away the carcass that a 
few moments before so proudly entered 
the arena the ideal of a noble animal. 
1 60 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



The bulls used at the exhibition were 
bred for the purpose at some distance 
from any habitation, and had rarely 
seen a human being. Seven of them 
were killed ; some of them almost de- 
clining to fight until goaded up to the 
point. 

Two handsome animals declined 
charging the matador, thus depriving 
him of the opportunity of giving the 
coup de grace y hence the cachetero was 
called upon, who, when the bull is 
rather exhausted and weak, runs up 
behind him and thrusts a small dagger 
in the nape of the neck just above the 
spinal column, when the animal drops 
dead on the instant. During the vari- 
ous fights three horses were ripped open 
and disembowelled, a painful sight ex- 
cepting to one thoroughly heartless. 

During the afternoon some Mexicans 
were constantly addressing foul epithets 
toward some of the capas, whose actions 
they disapproved. Being remonstrated 

i6i 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



with by a giiardia civil, one quickly 
drew his revolver and discharged it at 
him, fortunately hitting no one. He 
fled on being pursued, when the officer 
quickly drew a lariat, and, with marvel- 
lous skill, lassoed him, and in the 
space of a few seconds wound the cord 
about him, binding the prisoner as 
though he were in a strait-jacket, 
picked him up, and bore him off. 

The dead carcasses of the bulls are 
sold at high figures to the butchers, the 
meat being considered enriched by the 
increased activity of the blood just be- 
fore being killed. 

The whole exhibition was painful and 
even sickening. The killed and maimed 
horses, the noble bull — a bovine mon- 
arch — to be thus cruelly used to pander 
to the lowest taste of the most depraved, 
made us feel as though in the progress 
of civilization the time must be near at 
hand when such exhibitions will be a 
thing of the past. 

162 



Bull-Fighting In Mexico 



The power of kindness over animals 
has been frequently illustrated, but 
never more clearly than by the follow- 
ing incident which occurred in Spain 
some years ago, an account of which 
the writer recalls. 

Notice had been posted on all the 
pubHc places that on a certain day the 
bull called '' El Moro " (the Moor) 
would be introduced into the arena, and 
that when he should have been goaded 
to the uttermost fury, a young girl 
would appear and reduce the animal to 
quiet subjection. 

The people of Cadiz had heard of 
** El Moro " as the most magnificent 
bull ever brought into the city, and it 
soon became known that the girl thus 
advertised to appear in so strange and 
daring a part was a peasant girl of Es- 
para, who had petted the bull and fed 
it and cared for it during the years of 
its growth. 

On the appointed day, as might be 
163 



Bull-Fighting In Mexico 



expected, the vast amphitheatre was 
filled to overflowing with an anxious, 
eager crowd. Bulls had been killed and 
dragged away, and then the flourish of 
trumpets announced the coming of the 
hero of the day. 

With a deep, terrific roar " El Moro " 
entered upon the scene. He was truly 
magnificent — black and glossy, with 
eyes of fire, dilating nostrils, and wicked- 
looking horns. T^x^ picadors attacked 
him warily, and hurled their banderillos 
(small dart-like javelins, ornamented 
with ribbons, and intended to goad and 
infuriate). 

The bull had killed three horses off- 
hand, and had received eight banderil- 
los in his neck and shoulders, when, 
upon a given signal, the picadores and 
matadores suddenly withdrew, leaving 
the infuriated beast alone in his wild 
paroxysm of wrath. 

Presently a soft, musical note, like 
the piping of a lark, was heard, and di- 
164 



Bull-Fighting in Mexico 



rectly afterward a girl, not more than 
fifteen years of age, with the tasteful 
garb of an Andalusian peasant, and 
with a pretty face, sprang Hghtly into 
the arena, approaching the bull fear- 
lessly, at the same time calling his name, 
" Moro ! Moro ! Ya voy ! " 

At the first sound of the sweet voice 
the animal had ceased his fury and 
turned toward the place whence it came, 
and when he saw the girl he plainly 
manifested pleasure. She came to his 
head and put forth her hand, which he 
licked with his tongue. 

Then she sang a low, sweet song, at 
the same time caressing the animal by 
patting him on the forehead, and while 
she sang the suffering monarch kneeled 
at her feet. Then she stooped and 
gently removed the cruel banderillos, 
after which, with her arms around '' El 
Moro's " neck, she led him toward the 
gate of the torril. 



165 



H 1Rocft?:^flDountain picture^ 

Winter Scents among the Glaciers of the 
Selkirks in British Columbia. 

THE mad torrent, swollen by the 
snows of a thousand hills, 
sweeps down with turbid waves, like a 
falling ocean, in a mass of milk-like 
foam, tossing about with impetuous 
force great cakes of ice and heavy logs, 
shooting them through the rocky clefts 
as though urged on by demon hands. 

The falling snow, lashed into fury by 
the rude wind, drifts into fantastic forms 
as it lodges on decayed stumps of old 
trees and on the jagged rocks, while 
huge dome-like piles of snow constantly 
confront us, rendering our task of travel 
not an easy one. The great forest of 
trees, many of mammoth proportions, 
are clothed from root to branches with 

i66 




o ^ 



.i®%:5 



«> . ■ c-sfc 



A Rocky-Mountain Picture 



a veneering of glistening ice, producing 
an effect of startling beauty. 

As we work our way up the narrow 
canons, cut like enormous trenches 
through the solid rock — oftentimes 
wading neck-deep through the soft 
snow — icicles of gigantic proportions, 
like inverted church steeples, hang from 
dizzy heights above us. Occasionally a 
thrilling sound falls on the ear, as one 
of these monsters, unable to sustain its 
own great weight, breaks from its place, 
and plunges into unknown depths, 
bearing with it everything it touches, 
the great rocks about us serving as so 
many sounding-boards to intensify the 
sound. 

Ascending some of the higher points, 
vast snow-fields are before us, peak after 
peak rears its white head far in the 
distance, deep black gorges frown in 
their ugliness near by. About us stand 
the mountains in their majestic holy 
stillness, held in the relentless embrace 
167 



A Rocky-Mountain Picture 



of the mighty glaciers. Frequently the 
deep thundering sound of an avalanche 
is heard, and we cautiously examine our 
standing-ground. 

Pushing on, small glaciers are visible 
on all sides, winding their way down 
through the mountain ravines. Ahead 
of us one of the grandest glaciers of 
the Selkirks is visible, pronounced by 
some to be several hundred feet in 
depth — a sea of ice slowly working its 
course to the valley below, doing battle 
with and conquering huge rocks on its 
way. 

Here we see enormous slabs of 
clear green ice, as big as the side of a 
house, tumbled together, some standing 
erect, like immense gravestones. Now 
we are startled by a sharp crackling 
sound which resounds through the 
mountains, as some large bulk of ice 
topples over, or settles deeper in its 
place. 

One may read for a lifetime and form 

iC8 



A Rocky-Mountain Picture 



no conception of such scenes as here 
present themselves; cold type cannot 
reproduce them or do them justice. 

Turning from the impressive grandeur 
of this enormous field of ice, the eye 
wanders off to the "snow-masses" of 
the wild mountains. The ever changing 
effect of light and shadow on these 
snowy peaks and the great white amphi- 
theatre are before us, the ensemble 
forming a wilderness of solitude. We 
stand and gaze on the entrancing scene 
so silent and lonely. 

This is the home of the big-horn 
sheep, the mountain goat and the bear, 
while deer and wapiti are found in 
plenty farther down. Far below on 
the mountain trail a band of Indians 
are jogging along on snow-shoes over 
the deep snow, swaying, in their usual 
shuffling gait, with the uniformity of a 
single man. 

In another direction we have a faint 
glimpse of the small but turbulent 
169 



A Rocky-Mountain Picture 



glacier-fed Illicilliwaet River, the glacial 
mud tingeing it a peculiar pea-green 
color ; high above and beyond are gla- 
cial mountains heaped against the 
sky. 

Before returning a blaze of sunlight 
breaks through a rift in the clouds, scat- 
tering them, presenting a scene inde- 
scribably grand, the vividly blue sky as 
a background, the white clouds hover- 
ing about on their shadowy wings, the 
sea of ice in varied colors glistening 
and shining like so many prisms, the 
panorama of mountain, the whole con- 
course of whitened peaks reflecting the 
brilliancy, the frosted trees which catch 
the sunshine on their icy coats, the soft, 
white snow sparkling in its freshness — 
all contribute to the glory of the pic- 
ture. 

The wind has died away, as though 

its office was now completed ; calmness 

pervades the landscape ; we are shut 

away with nature, so near that we can 

170 



A Rocky-Mountain Picture 



almost feel the throbbing of her mighty 
heart. Here she is at home. 

As the sun begins to sink, universal 
silence reigns ; all is still save the faint 
sound of the unseen torrent we had left 
behind. Nature is at rest. 



171 



^be (Slueen of tbe antUle6* 
I. 

Approaching Cuba — The City of Havana 
and Its Harbor — Morro Castle — Street 
Scenes in a Tropical City — The Old 
Cathedral with its Toffib of Christopher 
Columbus — Holy Week and Its Impres- 
sive Ceremonies. 

THE blue and brilliant sea was sleep- 
ing beneath a cloudless sky as we 
skirted the Florida coast ; the warm 
southern sun flooded the long sandy- 
shore, which glistened like polished 
steel, till it soon became a thread-Hke 
line almost lost against the horizon. 
We were approaching the end of our 
voyage, after a rather tumultuous 
passage. 

With the exception of a few heroines 
who unflinchingly defied the aromatic 
soups, tussled bravely with enticing 
172 



The Queen of the Antilles 



tongue, and courageously explored the 
mysteries of pastry opulent with un- 
questioned mince-meat, all the ladies 
vanished from sight soon after leaving 
port. They now all reappeared on 
deck like so many chirping birds after 
a storm, looking prettier and happier 
for their rest. The gentlemen, with 
cigar or pipe, were sunning themselves, 
spinning yarns, or intent over news- 
papers several days old. 

A group were gathered in another 
part of the deck devoting themselves to 
trolling. After hauling in a fair mess 
of the finny tribe, the stout line com- 
menced to jerk, growing taut and slack 
alternately. It was apparent that some 
big fellow had swallowed the red-flannel 
bait, and, disgusted with the deception, 
was frantically endeavoring to liberate 
itself. All hands laid hold, when, after 
a hard pull, there floundered on deck, 
surrounded by an admiring crowd, a 
huge green and gold-tinted dolphin ; 
173 



The Queen of the Antilles 



its beautiful color, however, quickly- 
faded after being exposed to the air. 

The chief ofBcer, with the traditional 
pipe in the starboard corner of his 
mouth, was being catechised as to the 
exact time we would reach our destina- 
tion, and a host of other necessary- 
interrogations. The snow-white sea- 
gulls, ''gleaners of the sea," were wheel- 
ing gracefully overhead or resting on 
the quiet water. So the hours pass, 
and the sunshiny day steals into twi- 
light. We sit and enjoy the delicious 
semi-tropical air, as one by one the 
ever-faithful stars break out through 
the darkened sky, until the whole 
heavens are spotted with "golden 
tears," which men call "stars." 

Early morning found us on deck; 
ahead of us lay " The Queen of the 
Antilles." The morning was warm and 
vapory, a struggle was going on between 
the mist and the rising sun, and our 
straining eyes only beheld blurred out- 
174 



The Queen of the Antilles 



lines of surrounding objects. But the 
mists were already ascending, and soon 
the old fort '' Castillo del Morro " 
(" Morro Castle " ) stands out before 
us in strong relief, grim and hoar, 
seeming as if it had taken root on the 
bold cliff, while farther on we see the 
** Castillo la Cabana," with its fortifica- 
tions on the " Heights of la Cabafia." 
Our steamer had no sooner made 
fast to its buoy in the harbor (few, if 
any vessels, except those carrying the 
Spanish flag, going to the wharfs), than 
we were surrounded by a fleet of boats, 
hotel runners, and swarthy-skinned 
native boatmen {qiiadafios\ who by 
their lusty yells endeavored to capture 
us as passengers. The health officer 
having satisfied himself that all was 
right, we deposited ourselves in one of 
the small boats, which in color, and the 
style of its canopied awning, resembled 
somewhat a gondola, and quickly 
pointed for the shore. 
175 



The Queen of the Antilles 



The city of Havana, with a popula- 
tion of about 250,000, is situated upon 
a tongue of land, the head of which is 
protected by the two forts previously 
referred to. The streets of the city 
impress one as being inconveniently 
narrow ; the distance between the curbs 
is about twenty feet, with sidewalks 
three feet in width, being constructed 
thus to avoid the rigor of the sun ; in 
some places large awnings are stretched 
across the street from house to house. 

Two of the principal thoroughfares, 
O'Reilly and Obispo Streets, are so 
narrow that a city ordinance requires 
vehicles to pass up one street and down 
the other, excepting in cases where 
parties have to stop frequently. Small 
victorias, to the number of about five 
thousand, fairly overrun the city, driven 
in a manner wild and reckless ; acci- 
dents are of frequent occurrence. 

People drive in them on the slightest 
provocation, rates being very low, forty 
176 



The Queen of the Antilles 



cents in Spanish paper money (equal to 
about eighteen cents American money) 
for any continuous trip within the city 
limits. The horses are puny, miserable- 
looking creatures, but rarely fall or seem 
to tire. The drivers are an iniquitous- 
looking lot, dirty, as are often their 
carriages, the odor of cigarette smoke 
seeming to envelop the whole estab- 
lishment. 

The hotels are large and airy, with 
marble-tiled floors and stairways ; both 
the walls and ceilings being painted in 
bright, cool-looking colors. My bed- 
room, with a ceiling from fifteen to 
twenty feet high, looked out on an 
inner open, court ; the clear sky above 
was refreshing to the eye, but from the 
yard below an unsavory odor arose. 
For an extended period in the past, the 
various occupants of the rooms on the 
court must have contributed their share 
of banana-peels, cigar stumps, and gen- 
eral rubbish, all of which was now 
177 



The Queen of the Antilles 



festering in the sun. Here at night 
assembled the Spanish cats of the 
neighborhood to make their tender con- 
fessions, in true operatic style, upward 
through the whole chromatic scale. 

The theatres are not attractive to one 
accustomed to those in the '* States " ; 
they look bare and uninviting. A visit 
to one of them of medium grade proved 
of interest. Reserved seats are sold 
either for the entire performance, or 
can be had for each separate act, an in- 
termission of fifteen minutes between 
each act affording time to purchase 
tickets. 

The ballet was the prominent feat- 
ure, and for those fond of that style of 
entertainment it must have thorougly 
satisfied them. The theatre was packed ; 
at each side of the stage stood 3. policia 
in his untidy uniform. 

The curtain ascended, disclosing to 
view a picturesque grouping of fairies 
in draperies that looked as though they 
178 



The Queen of the Antilles 



had been spun from the substance of 
dreams. Behind them, in the habili- 
ments of a king, stood a repulsive-look- 
ing creature, with a bovine counte- 
nance, one who looked as though he 
would tackle a circular saw without 
flinching, apparently thus placed to 
bring out to better advantage the fair 
performers. 

In the centre of the stage appeared a 
huge lily; as the orchestra launched 
forth into a thrilling waltz, the fairy 
queen emerged from the flower, her 
form rising like a tremulous evening 
star. She had a fetching dimple in her 
chin, and a smile for all. Her toilette 
commenced rather late, and ended very 
soon. 

Noiseless as a feather or a snow- 
flake falls, she touches the ground ; her 
sylph-like form glides through the air, 
her footsteps falling as lightly as a sun- 
beam on the water, the floor seeming 
to bend and wave beneath her; a scarf 
179 



The Queen of the Antilles 



floated about her, as though she was 
resting on a cloud. 

" With complexion like the rose 

'Mid the snows, 
Due to powder on her nose, 

We suppose, 
She twirls upon her toes 

In abbreviated clothes, 
And exhibits spangled hose 

To the beaux," 

The audience of pale-faced, excitable 
Cubans arose from their seats, shower- 
ing her with all manner of Spanish 
compliments, growing wild with en- 
thusiasm. Sitting through a single act 
in clouds of cigarette smoke quite satis- 
fied our curiosity. 

The Cathedral, the foundation of 
which was laid in 1656, and completed 
sixty-eight years later, is of Gothic and 
Latin architecture. It contains the 
tomb of Christopher Columbus, whose 
ashes lie in a vault of the Cathedral. 

As is well known, at the ripe old age 
180 



The Queen of the Antilles 



of seventy-one he died in 1506, in Val- 
ladolid, Spain, where he was buried 
with great funeral pomp. In 15 13 his 
remains were transported to a convent 
at Seville, and deposited in the chapel 
of Santa Christo ; again in 1536 they 
were removed to Hispaniola, and in- 
terred in the Cathedral of the city of 
San Domingo. On the cession of His- 
paniola to the French in 1795, the 
Spaniards, valuing his remains as 
precious relics, connected with the 
greatest epoch in Spanish history, de- 
termined to bring them to Cuba, and 
on December 20, 1795, in the presence 
of dignitaries of the Church, also civil 
and military officials, the vault was 
opened. 

Finding the fragments of a leaden 
coffin, a number of bones, and a quan- 
tity of mould, they were carefully col- 
lected, placed in a leaden case, secured 
by an iron lock, this again being en- 
closed in a velvet-covered casket. Amid 
181 



The Queen of the Antilles 



chanting of masses, booming of artil- 
lery, and an imposing procession, the 
remains were conducted to the ship. 

On the arrival in Havana, they were 
received with great ceremony, and con- 
veyed to the Cathedral, being deposited 
at the side of the grand altar. Thus at 
the very port from which three hundred 
years previous he had been carried off, 
loaded with ignominious chains, and 
apparently blasted in fame and fortune, 
his ashes were now received with august, 
impressive solemnity and devout re- 
spect. 

At the side of the altar is a bust in 
relief of the great man, with a tablet 
bearing the inscription : 

" Oh ! restos e imagen del quande Colon 
Mil siglos durad, guardados en la urna 

Y en la remembranza de nuestra nacion." 

" Oh ! remains and image of the great Colon 
A thousand years endure, preserved in this urn 
And in remembrance of our nation." 



182 



^^^^^^^^^1:^11^:^5^^^^ 



II. 



Holy Week in Havana — Impressive Pro- 
cession — Charming Drives and Tropical 
Scenes — Importtmate Beggars. 

BEING a holy day, a grand mass 
was being celebrated in the 
Cathedral. The Captain-General and 
his suite attended, arrayed in their 
gaudy uniforms, the former coming in 
his carriage with attendants in red and 
gold livery. The lady worshippers in 
many cases wore evening costumes, 
silks, satins, and laces being in profu- 
sion. The organ with its golden lips 
breathed forth the sweetest anthems, 
their melody echoing through the great 
arches. 

During the afternoon a procession 
occurred, composed of the military and 
priesthood. The narrow streets were 
thronged with a living mass of hu- 
manity in holiday attire. 
183 



The Queen of the Antilles 



First came the military, a loose-look- 
ing lot of men, many of the regiments 
in linen uniforms, and generally untidy, 
with arms reversed, and hands clasped 
in front ; they marched however fairly 
well. 

Following them came boys in long 
black gowns marching in single file, 
each one bearing before him an emblem 
of the Crucifixion. The first lad held 
aloft a cross, followed by another, 
about twenty feet in the rear, bearing 
three nails, again another with a spear, 
another a ladder, the next a sponge, 
the last one carrying a crown of thorns. 

Following came priests with candles, 
their eyes cast upon the ground, and, 
with the slow, measured step and 
solemn music, the scene was indeed 
impressive, as the platform bearing a 
life-size recumbent figure of the dead 
Christ followed. 

The final scene in the procession was 
a Hfe-size figure of St. Catherine, dressed 
184 



The Queen of the Antilles 



in a purple velvet gown of rather 
modern style, standing erect on a plat- 
form borne by a number of barefooted 
negroes. Unfortunately, through a 
mis-step of one of the bearers, the plat- 
form tilted, and the figure suddenly 
took a plunge headlong into the street, 
remaining for a few moments in a 
position, to say the least, decidedly 
undignified. After some difficulty and 
persuasion, she was prevailed upon to 
resume her original position, and thus 
ended the procession. 

The Prado, the main avenue of the 
city, with its promenade of three miles, 
is adorned on either side with Indian 
laurel trees, and is one of the conspic- 
uous attractions of the city. In the 
centre of the Paseo is the park, in 
which stands a statue of Isabella la 
Cattolica, by the sculptor Vega. A 
mob overthrew the statue on her ex- 
pulsion from Spain, it being reinstated 
however when her son Alfonso XII. 
185 



The Queen of the Antilles 



ascended the throne. During the even- 
ing the military band frequently plays 
here, when the display of carriages 
and citizens is very imposing. 

The cafes facing the park are a fea- 
ture of the city, and are crowded every 
night, the gentry appearing to make 
them their chief rendezvous. The most 
fashionable of these resorts, the Grand 
Cafe del Louvre, is very spacious, with 
lofty ceiHngs ; its wide doors open on 
the street almost as though no wall 
intervened. Here assemble the more 
select to chat while sipping their 
cooling drinks, and wafting circles of 
sweet-scented smoke from choice cig- 
arettes. 

Wines are cheap in Havana, hence 
of course it has been decided that 
the water is not good ! Claret, beer, 
and mineral waters are largely used by 
all classes. 

The climate of Cuba is very uniform ; 
the mean temperature of the year at 

i86 



The Queen of the Antilles 



Havana is 'j']'^ Fahr. The coldest day 
is about 60°, the warmest being seldom 
above 90°. The rainy season is from 
May to November; the dry season, 
called la seca, prevailing in winter. 

The dwelling-houses are mostly built 
of calcareous stone, upon which the 
island itself rests, being generally two 
stories high, with very thick walls ; the 
windows of the first floor being nearly 
on a level with the street are protected 
with iron bars, having solid wooden 
shutters inside ; hence, when the occu- 
pants of these apartments desire air 
and light, it exposes them to the gaze 
of every inquisitive passer-by ; a few of 
the finer houses, only, having the shut- 
ters panelled with glass. 

One large double front door serves 
as an entrance for the occupants of 
the dwellings, as also for horses and 
carriages ; it is generally adorned by a 
massive knocker. As the huge door 
swings open, a broad marble-lined pas- 
187 



The Queen of the Antilles 



sage-way is before you ; the house is 
arranged in the hollow-square plan. 

In the homes of the wealthier class, 
the variegated marble walls and stairs 
polished to a high degree, present a 
rich appearance. Much of the finer 
marble used is quarried from the ** Isla 
de Pinos," an island about seventy 
miles southwest of Cuba. 

Many parts of the city are rendered 
offensive by foul odors, the houses in 
many cases being drained by open sur- 
face sewers ; the refuse and decayed 
matter are washed into the gutters, 
from which there arises a loathsome 
vapor. 

As in most Spanish cities, beggars 
are numerous, and impudently impor- 
tunate ; the last day of the week they 
come forth with special energy to ply 
their vocation, it being recognized as 
"beggars' day." Old women, thin and 
emaciated, in reckless costumes, glide 
up to you, and after emitting a cloud 
i88 



The Queen of the Antilles 



of smoke from the mutilated stump of 
a cigar, pour forth a volley of Spanish 
gibberish ; the only way to quiet them 
being either to toss them a bit of silver, 
or hurl back a current of English with 
a rapidity equal to their own style, this 
latter mode being generally very effec- 
tive in its results. 

Where beggars are so numerous it is 
difficult to sift the wheat from the 
chaff. Blind, diseased, and distressedly 
crippled creatures crawl from behind 
posts and trees with a hollow whisper, 
some seeking alms, others offering 
cigars for sale, three for five "pull- 
hards," also lottery tickets. 

The Cuban and Spanish gentlemen, 
as a class, are pale and delicate in ap- 
pearance. It has been said " that he 
who drinks beer, thinks beer, and he 
who drinks wine, thinks wine " ; as a 
nation of inveterate smokers, their 
dreams must surely end in smoke. 

Beautiful women are a rarity in 
189 



The Queen of the Antilles 



Havana ; with a few exceptions, they 
are pale and unattractive ; they powder 
their faces excessively, rendering them 
a chalky whiteness. Some of the young 
girls, before they have reached the pow- 
dering age, are very pretty. 

Visiting a flower garden a short dis- 
tance from the city, a young girl, about 
eighteen years of age, came out to 
greet us. A rare beauty she was, with 
a complexion of richest olive tint, well- 
rounded cheeks of delicate pink, large 
lustrous eyes, overshadowed by long 
lashes, while from her shapely ears hung 
ear-rings of expansive circles ; as she 
stood near the porch of her humble 
home, the sunbeams played around her 
head like a halo. She was indeed a 
picture. 

A drive to one of the country villas 
a few miles from the city afforded us 
an opportunity to view the luxuriant 
tropical scenes for which the island is 
so justly celebrated. The graceful 
190 



The Queen of the Antilles 



palmettos, which bordered the road 
through which we drove, waved their 
giant leaves, as though beckoning us 
with their long fingers to this paradise 
of flowers. The grounds were prolific 
with countless varieties of the palm, 
and brilliant flowers, while profusely 
distributed on every side were banana, 
cocoa-nut, orange, lemon, olive, and 
other tropical products. 

Havana has its " bull-ring " and 
" cock-pits," both of which amusements 
occur on Sunday. Like in all Spanish 
countries, the natives never seem to 
weary of the stirring scenes they pre- 
sent, and patronize them liberally. 

To those partial to a tropical climate, 
living in Havana has many attractions. 
The natives rise early, and in the fresh- 
ness of the soft, balmy air take their 
coffee and roll ; the military band fre- 
quently plays about seven A.M., and in 
the still air its melody can be heard at 
a considerable distance." 
191 



The Queen of the Antilles 



Business is attended to until break- 
fast at eleven o'clock, after which one 
returns to remain until the hour for 
dinner, any time from four to five 
o'clock, after which he rides, drives, 
or seeks the cafe during the cool of the 
evening. 

It is an easy matter to get into Cuba, 
but the facilities for leaving the island 
are fraught with vexations, even if pos- 
sessing a passport. We had our pass- 
ports, and on presenting them when 
applying for return steamer tickets, a 
young man, with a low-neck vest, and 
a collar that looked tired, leisurely 
brushed the ashes from his cigarette, 
as he condescended to glance at the 
documents, trying at the same time to 
make himself look taller, by turning up 
his moustache. 

Retiring to a rear ofiBce, he reap- 
peared with a gentleman wearing a wide 
smile and a narrow coat, pompadour 
hair, and a black moustache. They 
192 



The Queen of the Antilles 



were joined by another, whose capa- 
cious shirt-front was lighted with Koh- 
i-noors, his diminutive head surmounted 
by a silk hat, vintage of 1850 ! 

A long consultation, during which we 
were thoroughly scrutinized, they all 
then disappeared, and we were left in 
suspense. The gentleman with the silk 
hat soon reappeared, all smiles and 
diamonds ; after slowly rolling and 
lighting a cigarette, he returned us 
the passports with permission to leave 
the island ! 



193 



H Meetern C^jclone* 



Peculiar Atmospheric Conditions Preceding 
the Storm — Approach of the Fimnel- 
shaped Cloud Bringing Death and 
Destructio7i in its Path — A Scene of 
Devastation. 

AN oppressive sultriness had per- 
vaded the atmosphere during the 
day, the heat had been uncomfortable, 
and the earth was parched and dry for 
the want of long-needed rain. 

Clouds had been forming on the hori- 
zon, with promises of a refreshing shower 
in the evening, — a welcome boon to the 
sweltering people. Slowly the bank of 
clouds increased in size, while an omin- 
ous greenish tinge appeared in the sky, 
— the air became hotter and very close, 
great beads of perspiration stood on our 
foreheads, a strange sensation produced 
194 



A Western Cyclone 



by the peculiar state of the atmosphere. 
People looked at each other with an 
uncertain gaze, horses shifted restlessly 
and neighed to each other, while dogs 
whined and slunk away to places of 
safety. 

Here and there a gleam like a glitter- 
ing dagger flashed from the darkened 
heavens, the sky grew blacker than ink, 
and forked lightning rent the clouds. 
Terror was now taking possession of 
every one, and intense fear was depicted 
on each face. 

When suddenly from all sides the 
cry rent the air — "A cyclone, my 
God, a cyclone ! " Then up loomed 
in the distance the fatal and dreaded 
inverted cone, covering a large part of 
the southern sky. Twisting and twir- 
ling, the great black column, rising tow- 
ard the zenith, came rushing down 
toward the town. 

As soon as the big double spiral was 
formed, it began moving at a terrific 
195 



A Western Cyclone 



rate in a zigzag course. Just as it 
reached the town, the huge black funnel- 
shaped cloud swooped down, a rush of 
wind, a patter of hail, and the demon 
was doing its deadly work. 

Houses were lifted bodily and dashed 
into kindling wood ; the air was soon 
filled with pieces of board, roofs of 
buildings, limbs of trees, and rub- 
bish ; tall sturdy trees uprooted and 
twisted off near the ground were sent 
flying like chaff through the air ; grave- 
stones were thrown flat, and in many 
cases nothing was left to show where a 
house had stood. Railroad cars were 
tossed over like toys, and the heavy 
steel tracks were twisted and bent as 
though they were wire. 

Far and near the prairie was strewn 
with debris, when suddenly the inky 
black cloud seemed to remain motion- 
less, then with renewed vigor it surged 
forward to snatch in its terrible embrace 
everything in its path. 

iq6 



A Western Cyclone 



Animals were hurled through the air, 
furniture, stoves, pianos, and human 
forms bruised beyond recognition, 
formed a part of the flying mass, as 
the force of the monster increased. 

For a quarter of an hour the demon 
plunged on its way, and the terrible 
uproar and devastation raged. Then a 
sudden silence came, broken only by the 
cries and moans of the victims — a heart- 
rending sight indeed! The wails of the 
wounded fell with sickening distinctness 
on the evening air, now rendered clear 
and bright, also purified after the storm. 
The dead, mangled and torn into shape- 
less forms, were scattered in every 
direction. 

Here the body of a mother, crushed 
under a beam, holding in her arms the 
battered form of her babe ; there a man 
struck down in the full vigor of man- 
hood, with a hole in his skull from 
which a small rod of iron protruded. 
Farther on, a whole family lying dead, 
197 



A Western Cyclone 



covered with mud and their own blood. 
What desolation was here, presenting 
as it did, the aspect of a battle-field 
after a conflict ! 

Massive iron railway bridges were 
wrenched from their firm foundations 
and hurled one side ; heavy iron safes 
were lifted and carried long distances. 

The country beyond was covered 
with great masses of rubbish ; every 
conceivable kind of household furniture, 
clothing, food, merchandise, dry goods, 
hardware, and farming implements were 
mixed in with the bodies and dismem- 
bered victims, some dead, others so 
wedged among the rubbish as to be 
unable to be released. Such a sight 
can never be obliterated from the 
memory of one who has ever witnessed 
it. 

One entire family living on the edge 
of the town was saved by taking refuge 
in their cellar. The house was not car- 
ried away, but was shaken as though by 



A Western Cyclone 



an earthquake, and falling, temporarily 
imprisoned them all. A few hours' 
work brought them their liberty. 

Beside an uprooted tree lay a beauti- 
ful girl, fashioned in one of nature's 
finest moulds — no mangled corpse, but 
doubtless stunned by falling timber. 
She had just breathed her last. Beside 
her was seated a young girl watching, 
her eyes streaming with tears, dumb 
with terror. 

Parents were seeking their children, 
and children their parents ; husbands 
and wives in agony of despair were 
rushing hither and thither unable to 
find each other, while brave hearts and 
strong hands were aiding their less 
fortunate brethren. 

A little girl was wandering about 
among the wrecks in search of her doll, 
as she lispingly told us, whilst rubbing 
the sleep out of her eyes with her tiny 
hands, not knowing that all the rest of 
the family had perished. 
199 



A Western Cyclone 



One man was whirled aloft a hundred 
feet, and in descending dashed with 
terrific force against a tree, meeting 
instant death. 

Out among the ruins, wandering aim- 
lessly about, was a rather elderly man. 
He looked haggard, taking no notice 
of the curious people constantly passing 
him in their eager search for friends. 
His home had been levelled to the 
ground, and he was loitering near the 
spot where his house had stood. He 
was evidently a poor man with little 
more than his home. 

Approaching him we asked if he 
had lost anything besides his house; 
he stopped, reached out and grasped 
our hands and said, ^' My baby;" 
he could say no more, but sat down 
on the ruins of his home ; strong 
emotion had unsealed the fountain 
of his eyes, the tears rolling down 
his cheeks as his voice thickened. His 
entire family had perished, a wife and 



A Western Cyclone 



four children. We could not say 
** Cheer up," but passed on, leaving him 
sitting alone and desolate. 

As we wandered away from the sad 
scene, realizing that in the brief space 
of fifteen minutes a pretty town had 
been wiped out of existence, happy 
homes broken up, some families entirely 
gone, others with but a few remaining, 
they perhaps maimed and crippled for 
life, we could not help pondering how 
the sublime mystery of Providence goes 
on in silence, giving no explanation of 
itself. 



20I 



